Sway bar end links

Discussion in 'General Maverick/Comet' started by vvr210, Apr 11, 2013.

  1. vvr210

    vvr210 Member

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    I have end links that Im about to install but I need a picture of how they are assembled.I tried searching for a thread I seen before but I couldn't find it.Thanks
     
  2. 71gold

    71gold Frank Cooper Supporting Member

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    see if this helps..:Handshake.
     

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  3. scooper77515

    scooper77515 No current projects.

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    Frank, looks like you have some slop in yours. There is space at the 3rd rubber boot and the sway bar.

    But then I see you have an angle on your rack and pinion so I assume you have it jacked up and all weight off of them, so probably OK.

    Either way, it is a good picture to see how the parts are laid out.
     
  4. vvr210

    vvr210 Member

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    Ok thanks..The instructions say 5-10 ft lbs do I torque it down while the car is up in the air or do I drop it to the floor and then torque it?
     
  5. scooper77515

    scooper77515 No current projects.

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    On the new Rod and Custom kit I recently installed/am installing, it says to crank the nuts down until you can see three threads above it.

    I don't think there is a torque spec, as much as a "gist" of where you need to crank it down to.
     
  6. vvr210

    vvr210 Member

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    Ok so tighten until I see threads above the nut?What happens if you overtighten these,would you have driveability issues?
     
  7. rthomas771

    rthomas771 Member

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    Shop Manual says 6-12 ft. lbs. I'd drop it on the floor then torque.
     
  8. vvr210

    vvr210 Member

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    my torque wrench only goes down to 40 ft lbs but I think 6-12 ft. should be like hand tight I believe?
     
  9. rthomas771

    rthomas771 Member

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    Not really hand tight...more like good and snug. A sparkplug is at 25-30 ft. lbs.
     
  10. vvr210

    vvr210 Member

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    Ok,how do they look?
    Left Side
    [​IMG]

    Right Side
    [​IMG]
     
  11. 71gold

    71gold Frank Cooper Supporting Member

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    it's OK...:thumbs2:
     
  12. groberts101

    groberts101 Member

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    The way you guys are adjusting these things will make them more "comfy".. but loose play settings will allow them to scrub the bushings while also allowing more contaminants into the grease during heavy articulation.

    Over the years of trial and error.. I now always tighten them until you see the bushings just start to slightly bulge. That will make the bars initial response a bit better after all the slop is eliminated and helps keep the grease cleaner/trapped in the eye a bit better.

    Quick test to show how delayed the response can be with loose set bushings is to jack the car up and set it on jackstands. Then place the jack under one sides lower control arm and lift slightly to see how long it takes the other end of the bar to load the bushings on that side. The looser they are the more the the control arm can be moved(careful not to lift it off the stands though).. before the opposite side loads up.

    Also keep in mind that poly bushings can obviously take more preload than rubber.. before permenant compression damage would occur.. so there's that.
     
  13. vvr210

    vvr210 Member

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    I tightened mine till they bulged at first but I thought it was too much.I will drive it tomorrow see how it feels
     

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