Hello all, I have a Maverick 4-door, which actually belongs to my stepson, to build. Now I have no desire to put the kid into a race car, and he knows that. He is a pretty mellow kid as it is. I should also mention that this is a low budget build. Anyway, the whole intention here is to have a car that has great low end torque but isn't going to be turning low 8's in the quarter mile. It should also be responsive and street friendly. He understands that his red line will be like 6500. Here is a list of components I put together to start with: 302 bored .020 over Motorcraft 600CFM carb off of and old truck. Edelbrock Performer RPM intake Edelbrock 2122 Cam and lifter set Accel Super stock Ignition coil GT-40P salvage heads and gt-40p Iron Exaust manifolds into 2" duals Straight out to glasspacks or flowmasters. 373 rear gears Anything you would add or change? I am hoping I can use the stock torque converter since the cam starts making power right off-idle. The block is being completely rebuild with new timing, oil pump, etc.. Thanks in advance Jim
Ditch the P-heads unless you want to go nuts trying to fit headers/ manifolds to em in a mav. As for the gt 40 exh' manifolds...They are a no go in a mav. A good set of gears (3.55:1)will give the off the line acceleration you want and still be highway friendly. A set of regular GT 40 heads will do you just fine...Plan on headers too. Hooker PN# 6901s' are a popular choice for mavs/comets...Good luck!!! Oh, and welcome to the madness...
headers and a cut out are a must. the cut out will allow him the freedom to run around with open headers and sound like hes got a monster under the hood then when needed he can close the headers and switch back to mufflers to avoid any unwanted attention by the local pd. I call it the hush button I used long tube headman headers. I bought them from tognotties autoworld here in sacramento. I think they ran me like $150 and some change out the door but they were for the original iron heads. MONEY WELL SPENT I also have some long tube cherry bombs that I run on my car directly off the headers but it puts alot of back pressure on the motor. it sure sounds mean with or without the mufflers but it is noticeably faster without the mufflers a good tire and wheel combo helps as well I know they offer what they call drag radials. those seem to be popular with the guys that race there daily drivers at the local raceway I couldnt give you a recommendation on what to get as I havent gotten that far yet. I know that michelen is a VERY good tire to use AND ABUSE while still getting alot of wear I used to hot rod the daylights out of my dads old truck(390 with a 4 speed and short glass packs) and I had to pay for a set of michelens since I tore up his bfgoodrich tires and they lasted a long time even with alot of abuse after all I paid for them some strong u joints. and a drive line loop just in case the front of the drive line breaks dont forget to ask about the valve spring pressure. I dont know if the valve springs need to be changed or not with that cam. if they do need to be changed and you dont change them it will let you know RIGHT AWAY. I found out the hard way. ended up costing me another $75 to fix the old head ok thats my .02 cents sounds like a VERY good place to start
Thanks for all the great information everyone. Yeah I figured I would have to invest in the headers. I just thought maybe those P-manifolds would work since they are so short. And that the increase in power and efficiency due to the optimal spark plug location would make up for the lack of scavenging a little.
He understands that his red line will be like 6500. Not with that cam. Here is a list of components I put together to start with: 302 bored .020 over Why .020? I don't even know if .020 pistons are available for the 302, but if they are, it would be a limited selection. You may need to go .030 just to clean up the block. Motorcraft 600CFM carb off of and old truck. Should work great if it's in good working condition. Edelbrock Performer RPM intake A bit overkill, but will work. Edelbrock 2122 Cam and lifter set Excellent for Low-end torque. Falls on its face after about 4000 RPM. Accel Super stock Ignition coil Unnecessary, but won't hurt anything. GT-40P salvage heads See other members' comments. and gt-40p Iron Exhaust manifolds into 2" duals If you want iron exhaust manifolds, you will want stock Maverick 302 manifolds, as they are specific to the car. Straight out to glasspacks or Flowmasters. These are fine. 3.73 rear gears Not an option for the 8-inch rear. 3.80 would be the closest, and eat fuel like no tomorrow. 3.55 is a good street/strip compromise (but will still eat the fuel). I'd go with 3.00 for a daily-driver in a car without overdrive tranny.
when I first went to the machine shop to start my build they said my only options were 30-40 or 60 over. I went 30 but havent started the actual build yet so still may go .40 on the new dart block
to the board.... In agreement with all that's been said. My factory 302 is .030 over, cam & lifters, stock heads, headers, dual exhaust with performance mufflers, 3:55 gears in the rear, C-4 with shift kit & 2500 rpm Stall converter, MSD distributor & AL box, increased radiator to 3 core. Don't forget gauges to monitor everything. Car has great excelleration off the line & not to bad on gas. I do run premium gas, otherwise you can hear it ping when you get on it. When I was finished. Took it to the track, ran a 14:40 @ 95 mph. Not bad for a street/strip car. Have fun & good luck....
Hello again from the Gettysburg PA Area. The reason for the .020 cut is that I guess the machine shop only wants to just clean up the block I think I had something like .011 taper or something like that. I will call them and go to .030. That is if they havent started on the bore yet. I do have the stock maverick exhaust manifolds. The only reason I wanted to consider the P heads was I thought I might see some improved efficiency with the p heads considering the optimal spark plug location. As far as the rear goes, It came stock with 3.00 rear gears I believe. But there is a lot of play in the driveshaft (rotational) inside the rear. Which leads me to believe it's about shot.
I'm thinking that there would be no difference in price for the pistons if your overbore was .020 or .030 and the boring should be the same price so take the little extra in cubic inches and go the .030
