Won't go into gear after valve body swap?

maybe you screwed it up when you took it out/in...

 

Maybe, though it does look fine. I found a small scratch on the yellow valve, so I polished it with steel wool. Nothing seems to be in the way or catching, but I'll be darned if it goes in 98% and then stops.

Will attack it again this weekend.

 

Looks like the inner valve was too long, not letting the booster valve seat. Once I ground some metal off the shaft...boom!...when in fine. Don't know how it was able to be installed in the first place though. Almost looks like the inner valve was from a different VB.

Buttoned it back up, but it still blew up in my face. Reverse is ok, but when in drive, it stays in 1st without up-shifting. Manually shifting into 2nd works, but no automatic functions whatsoever, and no high gear anywhere.

 

Semi psychotic nervous breakdown update

Had to finally send it back to Jay at Broader Performance.
He sent me a "new" unit to try. Only out the shipping to send it to 'em.

Bolted in the new one and Boom! All the problems went away. The "hunting" and 2-3 death flare seem to have vanished.

My only gripe? It shifts very softly. If you're not paying attention, you won't even notice the 1-2. It's bit too soft for my taste, but definitely much better than before. It has performance mods, so I wouldn't know what to do to firm it up now.

Shipping of old VB: 12.00
2 more quarts of Trick Shift: 10.00

Total: $22.00

(I sprung for an aluminum deep sump for 120.00, but that was more of a "want" vs "need.")

The loot wasn't the problem, it was the aggravation that cost the 36 beers.

Some pics;

 

Is the filter suppose to look like that ?

 

Aye, everyone of Jay's deep sump filters come with that crease. I'm speculating that it might have something to do with "suction" dynamics.