Fixing a Leaky C4 Trans

Discussion in 'Technical' started by scooper77515, Nov 21, 2004.

  1. scooper77515

    scooper77515 No current projects.

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    When I first got my mav, about a year and a half ago, I swapped all the fluids and greased everything. I assumed it had never been done, and the car had 55K on the odometer, and I typically do this to all cars at 50k.

    Anyway, I dropped the bottom pan off the trans, drained all the fluid, replaced the filter, and let it drip for a couple days (while the parts came in). I could never get the mating surfaces dry from fluid long enough to get the gasket/sealant to stick well. Since the beginning, it has leaked (from the shifter unit and from the pan). But lately, it is starting to leak worse, like the fluid is softening the sealant. If I don't drive for two weeks, I lose about 1/2 cup of fluid.

    MY QUESTION (finally): What is the correct way to do a fluid/filter change, and what are hints for a good seal? Gasket or no, sealant or no, both? I don't remember if I have a gasket on there, maybe only sealant.

    Also, any suggestions on sealing the leak at the shifter? It is a slow drip, not like the pan.
     
  2. igo1090

    igo1090 Member

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    just drop the pan and let converter drain if it has a drain plug. do use a pan gasket, but not the cork one or a rubber one; if you overtighten, they will squeeze out or split. use either the black paper one or the tan paper one that feels like wax paper; they do not split. silicon/sealer is usually not necessary and can squeeze into the pan and clog something, like the filter.
     
  3. FoMoDave

    FoMoDave Maverick Owner

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    Leak at shifter-replace seal where shift linkge shaft enters trans.Never use silicone on trans. pan gasket.You can cement gasket to pan (use gasket cement) to keep it in place while replacing.Check pan to be sure that it is not bent or warped,use a high quality gasket.I perfer rubber but the main thing is not to overtighten bolts.Sealants are not required on trans. pan if pan is in good shape.Hope this helps.
     
  4. 74MAV

    74MAV Gearhead

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    scooper

    I agree with everyone else with the fluid change just make sure you got enough fluid in there during start up(especially when draining the converter) because the converter and the pan combined is a lot of fluid. I usually fill leaving a quart or two out from the total capacity(you will have to look in the manual for that) and add as I warm it up I ocasionally run the gear selector through the band of gears from P to D2 and keep checking and topping it off. Don't fill to fast as its very easy to overfill and tranny fluid really expands in volume as it gets warm


    Your leak sounds like a simple o ring. After you drain the pan and block the car wheels from rolling detach the shifter linkage from the tranny. Take the nut off the shifter assemble bracket going into the tranny and the outer bracket should side off a keyed shaft. There should be an o ring in a resesed area there. Get it out in one piece. I have a very good local parts store here that has a bin behind the counter with all sorts and sizes of o-rings. Hardware stores also carry them but be careful because most of them are meant to seal water you want an oil resistant one.

    Hope this helps but that should stop your leak and its cheap and easy.
     
    Last edited: Nov 22, 2004
  5. FoMoDave

    FoMoDave Maverick Owner

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    Shift Shaft seal #OS7413 - SKF part # most all part houses carry this seal.Also available is a speedy-sleeve part#SS99076 if shaft is very worn.
     
  6. scooper77515

    scooper77515 No current projects.

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    Thanks for all the help guys. I was not aware that the shaft seal would be that easy to fix. Also, I apparently put the pan on with all the wrong procedures.

    I will start fixing this tomorrow. After I get my new wheels installed...
     
  7. Old Guy

    Old Guy Member

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    Just to clarify a bit, there are two seals on the shaft assy. One is an o-ring behind the kickdown lever, the other is a larger lip seal that is a bit harder to get out but still simple to pry out. Use a deep well sockt or pipe nipple or something of your own ingenuity to reinstall it. That should be the one FoMoDave is referring to and is more often the leaker than the kickdown o-ring.
     
  8. scooper77515

    scooper77515 No current projects.

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    FoMoDave

    What are those numbers you gave me. I went to the parts house (Hi/Lo-O'Reilly) and they said they had no idea what those parts were. Then went to the local Ford dealer, and they said those are not ford numbers. They had an idea what I was looking for but did not recognize the numbers.

    I got a "filter change" kit, with a new rubber gasket (I know a couple of you said not to use rubber) but I cannot seem to find the paper ones. I will try the rubber with only a glue, not sealant, and see if it holds.

    Still need to seal up that shifter...

    FoMo, do you think I need the sleeve AND o-ring?

    scott
     
  9. FoMoDave

    FoMoDave Maverick Owner

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    Scooper- those part #s were SKF brand as stated.Any good parts person would know how to cross over #s to the brand/line that they carry.These are not Ford part#s.Most all if not all paper books list this seal whatever brand.I was in parts bussiness for many years and it allways amazes me at the level of incompotence in the industry.Yes on the o ring and probly not on the seal unless shaft is severly worn.Make sure pan gasket mating surface is straight and bolt holes are not dimpled in.You need to find a parts house with someone who knows how to look for parts in books not just their computer.Rubber gaskets work fine - do not overtighten!
     
  10. scooper77515

    scooper77515 No current projects.

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    Again, thanks for all the help. Should get a chance to get under there tomorrow.

    As far as "good" parts suppliers, all I have around here is O'Reilly and AutoZone, and I steer clear of the 'Zone.
     
  11. scooper77515

    scooper77515 No current projects.

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    Message fixed with smaller pictures.

    The inner one has a very hard ring inside, looks like an O-ring, but if it was, it has hardened up to a solid, brittle plastic.

    The outer is leaking, probably worse. Is there someway to put a seal in that?

    The "bolt" looking shaft on the inside moves in/out about 1/4 inch. Is this ok?

    The entire shifting unit, pointed to in the "outside" picture, wiggles a little, and you can see fluid trying to leak around the outside, where the pointer is, when you wiggle it.

    Any suggestions would be appreciated.

    Scott
     
    Last edited: Nov 27, 2004
  12. scooper77515

    scooper77515 No current projects.

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    Oops, did that thing with the big picture again. I haven't figured out how to shrink them down.
     
  13. Old Guy

    Old Guy Member

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    I see you have the same appreciation for these parts pullers, as I do. If it is not listed in the pc, they are stumped. A lot of it is due to our throw away cars now, no rebuilding brake cylinders or fuel pumps etc. Take the old one off and buy a new one. bad deal for us old gear heads who remember the good old days.
     
  14. Old Guy

    Old Guy Member

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    Scott, check your PM's.
     
  15. scooper77515

    scooper77515 No current projects.

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    Old guy,

    nothing in my PMs. Try e-mail. scooper@sbcglobal.net I really would like to hear your input.

    Thanks
    Scott
     

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