Looking at the angle finder from the pass side, i have 1-1/2 to the left of 0' which is pinion down from what i can remember..I have 2-1/2 to the right of 0 on the driveshaft...So what do i have here or what setting do i need to go with on the pinion...Getting older and forgot its been soo long since i set pinio angle..
they should never be inline the u joint always needs some angle to work right, pinion angle is a combo of the drive shaft and the pinion,i always shoot for 4 deg. of difference,drive shaft down and pinion up alittle thats with leaf springs
So, are you talking leaf spring rearend or 4 link type. If you lower the pinion angle this should help increase traction.........as you apply a load to the ring/pinion it tends to climb...........meaning the pinion angle will change.........it will go up, this is accomplished by adjusting the top control arms if you don't have leaf springs. If you do have leaf springs you can use shims with a 2 degree, 3 degree, etc angle and insert them under the axle pad. So, as Jayss10 mentioned, the transmission tail shaft should be down (I always shoot for 3 degrees) and the rearend pinion should be up (again I shoot for 3 degrees) and this should get you where you want to be. Also, if you are drag racing or canyon carving you may also think about lowering the center of gravity................lowering the car...........this can also help with traction and handling..................................................IMHO
Its a 95 stang with front and mid motor plates..4 link all solid bushings..Anti Roll Bar I can not lower the trans because of the engine mounts...Looking at the angle finder from the pass side of the car , i have 1-1/2 left of 0 on the flat of the pinion yoke..I have 2-1/2 to the right of 0 on the driveshaft , just a few inches up from the pinion up on the driveshaft..I measured the trans on the metal flat part of the rear seal, it shows 0
I have never measured from anything but the output shaft of the transmission, as this should be the centerline of the crankshaft. Take the driveline out.......put your angle finder on the end of the trans output shaft and read the degrees either plus or minus..................then go back with driveshaft out and measure the pinion angle................this will give you a true plus or minus reading..........I would have thought this was done when the motor plates were installed.......................who's 4 link do you have or is it stock with different arms...............have you reinforced the boxes where the 4 link attaches...........they are not very strong stock...........and with slicks and a healthy motor you will just rip them out...................IMHO
All UPR...I bought the upper and lower plates that were welded in for both upper and lower's...And boxes were welded also..I have a yoke i use when pulling trans, i will stick it in and see what it reads off it like you said..Are you saying output shaft or tailshaft? Will it be ok just to set the angle finder on the yoke that dont have a shaft on it
i agree with oldrodder surely they set up motor and trans for the right angle if they installed plates,if we assume that them shortening the top bars will give you more frontend lift ,and then you get into preload lol ,this thread could go on for a year straight with all the info that can control traction ect....if the car was raced already,ect.. try to find out more about it like time slips ect...if the short times are good and it seems to run the # it might be best to leave it alone,race it and then fine tune it for your weight in the car
