Hello again all. Since the Maverick has been plagued by problems the last few months, I have been thinking of parking it for a while and getting it how I want it before driving it. This has always been my daily driver, so I have never been able to take it down for more than a coupla days. So before I take this on, I have a few questions. In order to have a 9 inch rear end narrowed, where would you take it? I have my new motor planned out, and will be needing a tough rearend to stand up to it. I'm thinking of getting a 9 inch limited-slip rear end with 4.11 gears.(I will be switching to a 5 speed also). Just don't have a clue what kind of shop would narrow rear ends. Also, I thought I'd include the 347 plans I put together. I think I took it slow enough to ensure that all parts will work together, but if something sticks out to you folks, please let me know. 347 stroker- 302 block +.030 Eagle Crankshaft 3.4" stroke / 5.4" rod length / External Balance Eagle Connecting rods (up to 500 hp) 5.4" length/555g weight /bushed pin Speed Pro Competition Series Main/Rod bearings Speed Pro Forged Pistons 9.53 compression ratio/ 63.0 cc chamber Speed Pro Moly Rings (recommended for the above pistons) Edelbrock Victor Junior Heads 60 cc combustion chambers, 210/75cc Intake/Exhaust runners, 2.05"Intake valves/1.6" exhaust valves Edelbrock Performer RPM Cam kit .496" Intake lift/ .520 exhaust lift 224* intake duration/234* exhaust duration 1500-6500 RPM range Edelbrock Performer RPM Intake Manifold 1500-6500 RPM range Edelbrock Performer 600 cfm carb. I tried to stick with components of the same manufacturer because I figure that they will work well together. Is this plausible? The cost of everything listed up there (except the block) is approx. $2948.00 I know nuts and bolts and other odds and ends will add more, but that isn't that bad. There are other little items like the hardened oil pump drive shaft, deep sump oil pan, high volume oil pump.......etc. But you get the gist. How does this combo sound? Will it make decent power? This engine will go into the Maverick along with a 5 speed and (I'm thinking) 4.11 gears. I figure with the overdrive, I can get away with the gears. Ya'll tell me what you think. Thanks ya'll, Preston
Preston, that motor combo looks good. Only thing I would suggest is going to a larger carb. I sure this will be debated but I would look at going to about a 700 cfm carb. I ran a 600 for years, really played with it too. Then I decided to go with a 700 just to see, I was very pleased at the result. As far as the rearend goes, getting it done locally is usually done at a machine shop. That takes much work on your part to get all the specifications to them. If you have never done this, it can be tough, I did it last year. Learned alot and now can do it easily. I have provided a link, if you study it, you will learn alot. You can also get a rearend from that link. In my opinion the easiest way to go. Dan http://www.currieenterprises.com/html/aboutus/currierearends.htm
I'd look into a little more aggressive cam muhsef (not too radical though) - and a bigger carb. Good luck.
More camshaft and more carburetor. Better get some slicks too buddy With those heads you can really get take advantage of some wild internals. If you want it to be more streetable, I'd go with Performer RPM heads. Just my opinion.
What camshaft would you guys recommend? It will be driven on the street, but nasty is okay. Do you think this combo will approach the 450-500 mark? Just curious. Are the gears too low, or with a 5 speed will they be okay? I want this sucker to pull like nobody's business. And ya'll talked me into the bigger carb. Will probably plan to go with the 700 or a 750. Thanks ya'll. Preston
Yeah, definitely a bigger carb. My 347 pulls much better with my 750 than when I was running a 600. A 700 cfm would probably be ideal but they Edelbrock dosn't offer it at a reasonable price compared to the 750. I got my 9" rear from Currie and was very happy with it. After you add up the cost of buying all the parts and then paying a shop tp cut it and put it togethor you probably could have bought a complete 9" drum to drum from currie for not much more. The fit was perfect and they already have all the specs. Check out my website below if you want to see the rearend shipped and installed. Another I would suggest is going with a roller lifter conversion, no friction, or wear and higher revs.
Courier- I swiped your cam specs, and put them in as a roller cam. I am thinking of taking Ryan's advice and going that route. I just wanted to see what effect it would have on my numbers.....WOW!! 490 horsepower at 6000. and 462 torque at 4500 Did you just call The cam company and give them your motor combo and they ground the cam out for you? I was impressed. I may have done wrong by ust making it a roller cam in the program, but I wanted to see the difference between the 2 types of cams. Roller seems to be much better......Just worried it'll be more difficult to deal with. Preston
I'd try about a 370 gear.That much power and the 411's might make the 1-2 shift kinda short unless you get a 5-speed with a higher 1st gear.I'd also go with a holley 700 mech secondary instead of the edelbrock carb,2 reasons;I know people who are good with holleys(don't know anyone tweaking edelbrocks around here)so..from what I've seen,holleys are faster.Having said that I'll say that almost everyone I've talked to with an edelbrock says they're much more streetable.
That is an off the shelf Crane grind Preston. THe difference with a roller cam is how aggressive the lobe profiles are. I think Comp Cams' website probably has some diagrams that would help explain it, but it boils down to this: A flat tappet requires a much more gentle lobe on the camshaft to be able to follow the profile smoothly. A roller follow a much steeper lobe, allowing it to get to max lift quicker, spend more time there, and return to the base circle more quickly. This makes for more precise valve control along with reduced friction due to the roller. Did that make sense?
With a bigger cam and carb come bigger other things!!! Lets not forget the stall when you start building a stronger motor. I agree with courier11sec on the roller cam but keep in mind your buget, flat tappet cams are much cheaper then rollers but rollers are worth every penny. NO 600 CFM CARB with standard Victor Jr's heads you will need at least a 700 cfm carb. Air in... Air out If you want some really good help from the people who do this for a living then call 1-800-999-0853 (Comp Cams) and ask for kris he is one of the best at putting SBF combo's together. Just remember not to go to far overboard. Bossmav
Country mav,The parts U listed sound good,but I would go to AFR 185 heads with a 58"cc chamber. Those victer Jr.heads hace 210"cc intake runners,and it really makes the bottom end really soft. I have put the Jr"s on a 408 that felt really good, but 347 is not enought motor turning 6500rpm to use the Jr"s. The cam shaft sounds good for a street/strip motor. What torque Converter are you using? You will need at least a 2800 stall just to keep it happy. P.S. I have a buddy running high 10"s with 347 AFR heads but alot more cam.
I think I have decided on a Crane Cams Roller cam with a .574/.595 lift. 236/244 duration. I like the way it works with my combo. Question is, will this thing be streetable enough to be driven on cruise-ins?? Thanks ya'll!! Preston
Yeah Preston!!! That's gonna be one grumpy son of a gun! For the occasional cruise in it'll be just fine. I know you won't, but don't expect daily driver manners out of it with that big ol' bumpstick in it.
