for the last 2 weeks my starter has acted up. it would click...click...start. then...click...click...click...click...start. then...click...click...click...click...no start. I pulled it off and had it checked...they found nothing wrong... put it back on...click...click...click...click...no start. took it back and they found nothing wrong... I had 12.76 V at starter cable and the same on the starter wire in the start position... assumed it must be...no amps in battery...wrong... I borrowed a...load tester to check the batt, it was fine... my batt. is in the trunk so as i was getting ready to close the trunk after testing the batt. I saw my...batt. disconnect switch...I put the tester on the cable to batt. and it was fine... then i turned the switch to the on position and tested the other side...it had 12.76 V on it but when i hit the tester button...nothing. no load through the switch...:bananaman went to town and got a new heavy duty switch and now the starter works fine... ...on the road again....
I've experienced that with both one switch on my car, and the one on my buddies car. I think that these things aren't that high of quality.
The first one I had that was bad was a Moroso (but it was probably 20 years old as it was in my old Mustang that I raced in the 80's). I believe that my buddies was a Moroso as well (but was probably less than 5 years old). The one that I have in my Maverick now is a Cole Hersee 75903. Of course it looks just like the Moroso one and is probably the company that makes them for Moroso, but this has been reliable thus far. What can I say?
I've talked to a few local guys about them, and most of them had issues with Moroso ones. Moroso use to be so cool!!!
i dont run my starter power wire through the battery shut off switch. i use a the newer high torque light weight starter that has its own solinoid. i will run the battery + cable to the starter and the power wire from the 3g alt to that post also. then i will run a 4 gage wire from the battery to the shut off switch then to the power supply wire for the fuse block. this way will shut off the car when the switch is thrown as required by nhra and the switch wont burn out from the high amperage from the starter. i will also take the power feed for the electric fan from the starter post. that is the highest amperage componet i have and i wont have too big of a draw through the system.
I thought the NHRA requirement included that the car must be electrically dead from the switch forward? So no positive battery wires could short to ground and spark a fuel fire. EDIT: Found it: 8:4 MASTER CUTOFF Mandatory when battery is relocated, or as outlined in Class Requirements. An electrical power cutoff switch (one only) must be installed on the rearmost part of each vehicle and be easily accessible from outside the car body. This cutoff switch must be connected to the positive side of the electrical system and must stop all electrical functions including magneto ignition. The off position must be clearly indicated with the word “OFF.” If switch is “push/pull” type, “push” must be the action for shutting off the electrical system, “pull” to turn it on. Any rods or cables used to activate the switch must be minimum 1/8-inch diameter. Plastic or keyed switches prohibited. Switches and/or controls must be located behind rear wheels on rear-engine dragsters. So does electrical function include positively charged wires that could short?
