I've got all of my original lines, 90% of them unkinked, from my Maverick. I was considering buying stainless lines from a company, but would it be a better idea to buy some 5/16" steel line stock. a $20 tubing bender, and a $30 flaring kit, and make the lines myself? I don't want to reuse the originals because the fittings are trashed after corroding for 20+ years. Anyone ever consider taking this one on themselves?
It's really up to you, and depends on the condition of your lines. After 32 years, my lines are still in good shape...
I remade gas lines and tranny lines. My brake lines were fine. It takes patience and time. If you have your old lines, it makes it easier to duplicate them. Make sure you know the difference between a flare and double rolled flare. There is a difference-duplicate what you take off. Seth
There is a guy on eBay that sells the lines already pre measured and flared. I bought a set and then used my old lines to reproduce the bends. It takes patience but they turned out pretty good. For my current car I bought the pre-bent stainless ...
fuel line 3/8" copper tubing, tubing bender and patience. Take your time and you'll be truely rewarded.
I've always been told to shy away from copper tubing because it work hardens and fractures in short time.....donno.....be a man and just run half inch fuel line
All my years working on trannys we always used steel fuel (or brake) lines for replacement cooler lines. The lines are easy to bend, come with a double flare that fits most of the trans end fittings and the single flare is easy to do at the radiator. Some tips that might help are: If you are using single flares be sure to use the LONG flare nuts - this keeps the lines from breaking at the fitting or flare. Support the lines often in nylon or rubber coated clamps INDIVIDUALLY - lines rubbing together will wear holes in less time than you think. It is easier to work with short lines and connect them with the bushing connectors than to find a long line and try to snake it through as you bend it. DO NOT USE fuel line at any time or place in your cooler lines - it will rupture and necessitate a transmission rebuild. If you must use rubber hose then get some "Push-lock" hose and the appropriate fittings. - Oh and regardless of what the salesman tells you - use screw type clamps with the barbed fittings. Don't use any more hose than you absolutely have to - it will not hold up as well as steel lines. When wear might be a problem cover the steel lines with 11/32 or 3/8 inch vacuum hose. It is abrassion resistant and will eliminate the wear of your line rubbing against any metal that is in the way. The job is easy and takes less time than you might think. The other thing to consider is an external cooler. Get the largest cooler that you can find and by-pass the radiator completely. You can't run the transmission "too cold" - it isn't possible. The ford trannys love 180 degrees and that is warm enough to keep condensation out of the oil. I know what Ford says and it is BS! At 180 degrees your tranny will last a lot longer than it does running at 300+ degrees. The same rules apply to the lines in either case. PaulS
fuel line If you really want to "be a man" have a 3/8" bung welded on the bottom of your tank. The factory fuel pickup is to small. Use Aeroquip #8 fittings with #8 braided steel hose. Mount your fuel filter at the tank. If electric pump, mount at the tank end after the filter. If mech pump, use #8 fitting at the pump and #6 fitting and hose to the carb from the pump. Cost about $100-$150. It'll pass any safety imspection and never be a problem. Factroy uses steel because it's cheap. and you can be too, your choice. And by the way, 3/8" and 1/2" alum tubing is made for fuel lines.
