I'm putting all the accessories on my motor and I wired up my starter and all I get is a solenoid ckick... What am I missing ? Haven't installed a ground strap to the motor yet, will this make a difference ? No alt either...
Thanks Frank, I will put one on there and see.. I need to get out the manual and confirm the solenoid is wired right too...
If there's no ground strap from the motor to the body (which is also the frame ) or directly to the battery (the best way to route it IMO) you have a broken circuit.
Yes I have to change the way the car is grounded.. I looked at it today and the battery ground is just bolted down by the voltage reg that can't be a very good ground... I'm going to run a ground from the motor to the body then to the battery... Is that a good way to route the ground ?
You're better off grounding the motor direstly to the battery. And the body directly to the battery too, with two separate wires. The starter is the single biggest draw on the battery and you want the best ground path for that to function to the utmost of it's capacity.
that's my reasoning for a...braided ground strap...from a starter bolt...to the frame... also the motor needs a good ground for the...plugs to fire correctly... ......
Thanks for all the info... I see now that you can't have to many grounds, So I'll start with one from battery to motor, battery to body and braided strap from starter bolt to frame...
If you have the first two, the strap from the starter to the frame isn't necessary. The strap to the body is how Ford did it, but a 30-40 year old body isn't the best conductor of electricity. That's why I suggested two separate grounds from the battery, one to the frame (body) one to the motor.
Update !!! The lack of a ground to the motor was the problem... Starter works just as good as it did two years ago... Thanks guys for your help :Handshake
Ford used a ground from the motor to the body/frame. But I prefer to have two grounds, one each from the body to the battery and engine block to battery.