Starter stays engaged (not what you think)

You need the "short throw starter".
I ran into a similar fit on my 351W when I used a ford light truch flywheel to get the 11 inch clutch I wanted. There was only 3/8" from the starter mount to the ring gear. I finally found the right starter for it and no interference problems at all.
(I checked the fit before I installed the starter)
worst part was that I had rebuilt two starters so I would have spares - both are now delegated to the shelf incase one of my 302 Mavericks need a starter.

 

Yep, that's about the distance with my new JEGS flywheel. Do you remember the application the starter was for, or a part number? Anything wrong with shimming what I've got.

 

I'll bet you've got an automatic trans starter there. Block year makes no difference in starter, they're all the same in that regard. Bellhousing is what counts (auto or manual)

 

The starters for the manual and automatic use the same distance from the mounting surface to the gear - the difference is in the nose casting. You can go to the parts store and compare them side by side.

The application for the "short throw" starter is 1997 E150 with a 351W.
I keep track of all the non-stock parts on a car I am modding.

The shimming of the starter out 3/8" will cause added stress on the bolts and it may sag and cause problems in the future - it depends how it is shimmed but I would (and did) get the right starter.

 

Thanks for the info. Right now it's just shimmed with stainless steel spacers on the bolts and that's exactly what I was worried about. That much torque on steel bolts in an aluminum bellhousing worries me. If I keep the starter I'll buy a couple starter shims. They are cut to fit the base of the starter so it mimics the factory mount.