OK, This is starting to get frusterating...:confused: Accessing the headlight switch proved to be more difficult that I'd expected but I finally got to it. Any only broke one of the plastic mounting tabs on the instrument cluster (and heah....that didn't even need to come out for this). Once I figured out how to extract and replace the switch it all made sense. So, the head light switch appears to be brand new and tests fine accross all points. I replaced it, if for no other reason than due to all the work it was to get to it. Also replaced the dimmer switch on the floor. My frusteration no lies in the fact that my electrical situation is exactly the same. Low beams seam to work, although havn't been out for an extended drive to test them. The brights however still do not work. When the dimmer switch is pressed the headlights go dark and the red dash indicator lights up. Turn the switch off.....the dimm beams come back on. So, now for the stupid question of the day. I'll just beg for forgiveness now and blame my inability to find a shop manual so far. So here goes......... Can someone please tell me where the fuse panel is in my car? I know....I am ashamed, but I cannot seem to find it. I don't even know if there is a separate fuse for the brights but it seems like a place to start. Help!
Fuses should be located on driver's side behind your package tray? or are they different on early models? I know my 76' has a foot pedal e-brake and it's located right above that. Aside from switches, you may want to pull the plugs on the back of your hedlamps and clean them up, make sure she's getting good connection across the board. To determine if it's a bda ground, buddy of mine and i jumped a ground wire from the alt bracket to the passenger lamp socket. Typically though, it is the simmer pull switch? Not too sure there. On the bright side, at least yours is headlights, mine stopped charging the battery... UGH... allready has a new alt, voltage regulator (that box you talked about) all new wiring, new solenoid, and a nice new interstate battery from work. Dunno if i fried the new VRM or not
That was kinda what I was thinking. Didn't want to just throw money at it....I guess that is the last point in the line. Guess I'll pick up some new lamps. Thanks
i would get a test light and see if you have power at the headlight socket before you buy bulbs that you may or may not need.
When mine blew, once i took one off the car you could hear the filament remains rolling around in the glass, also a pretty good check. Or am i the only one who shakes 60w light bulbs to see if they are blown?
