I thought that the starter would work since its the same size flex/flywheel, is it a different bolt patten?
If you are going from a 71 flexplate to a 91 Flywheel they are different teeth if I remember right. I am also pretty sure the starter bolt pattern is different. When I went to my AOD my old starter did not fit. I went and got the newer Mustang starter. Although they use the same starter for Auto and manual trans for the fox body mustangs, it is different than the starters originally in our cars. I ended up getting the 93 mustang starter because thats when they went to a mini high torque starter. Easier to get in with headers and its lighter.
oh ok got it now, then i will need a new starter,flywheel(28 oz 157 tooth) and a 10.5" clutch. that clears that up a bit. I have another question that i have been wondering about that you guys might know, i have also been looking/pricing master cylinders for the hydraulic set up and i notice that each one has a different length plunger travel distance. What is the length or type i should be looking for? On summit racing there is a large selection.
I think Joe Dirt would be the best one to answer that question. Bryant, Mo, Chad, and myself al went with a CNC setup. There is a thread by Bryant with alot of talk about it. Each one of us has a "little" different setup though. I got just under 300.00 into my master/slave/line/pedal/pushrod setup. And like stated above if you have to buy anyway go with a mini starter. Just go to parts house and ask for a starter for a 93 mustang 5.0 with manual transmission.
ok i have a new question for you guys, im in the process of taking my newly aquired trans apart at put new seals in it and im having trouble figuring out how to take apart the shifter shaft/rail that runs from the shifter to the front/top of the case. how is this removed?
the trans needs to be in nutrual. you need to knock the roll pin down through the hole. you can use a drill bit that fits the hole and a hammer if you dont have roll pin drifts. then you can slide the housing back while the shift block slides off the shaft. there is a spring loaded ball under that you dont want to lose. this link should be lots of help for you http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2005/12/T5Rebuild/
you need to knock the roll pin down through the hole. you can use a drill bit that fits the hole and a hammer if you dont have roll pin drifts. ok i see now, is the roll pin reusable after knocking it thew the offset lever? or is that something that you buy.
it is reuseable. on the second page of that link i sent you is a link that will allow you to download the factory manual for the t5. its what i used to rebuild mashori's and my t5s.
i am in the process of looking for a flywheel now, and i was wandering are the flywheels for T5's mated to a 302 the same size as earlier flywheels for 302? are they all 10.5? what are all the common types used by everyone on the forum?
The imbalance is different for early vs late 302/5.0l, you'll have to get the correct flywheel for your engine 28oz early, 50oz late. Do a search, there's a ton of info on this.
ok, so i can just use a stock flywheel if i wanted to for an early 302 (28oz) 157 tooth? would this one be compatible? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FIZ-286280/
