here it goes, i have a 74 200 i6 that is stalling or wanting to stall at lights or stops. i just replaced the spark plugs and gapped, also replaced distributor cap as well as points and gapped to .025. replaced that spinning thing inside the cap sorry gear heads forgot what its called and the condenser in distributor cap. i was told that there is no vacuum suction so not sure where to start there. any help would help. not sure how to adjust the carb the manuel says to have the lights on high beam and the car in drive. ideals high in park but low in drive. sprayed carb cleaner in the carb with car on but still same. linkage is good all parts move. what else could it be. replacement carb is $200 cuz i want to keep old carb. still to much money for me. a rebuild kit is $20. man some help would be great right about now! thank guys.
You need to adjust the curb idle. The screw next to the idle screw. Needs to be in gear to do this. The engine should idle at 600 rpm. The spinning thing is called a rotor. Also, check for vacuum leaks.
Ok didn't know that the timing has to be rest, thanks. also how do u check for vacuum leaks? and the carb only has two screws. it's a YF and one screw is for idle and the other for fuel. have not seen another screw.????
Check your hoses for creaks. If you here a sucking noise that's a vacuum leak. The curb idle screw is right next to your idle screw. If I remember correctly its just below the idle screw.
ok here it is i did fix time it was way off and also took carb off and opened and cleaned out. im not sure whats going on with the carb? the car runs great in park but once its put in drive it starts to act up. tried to adjust the fuel and idle but nothing still running rough. is there a different way to adjust the idle with out adjusting the screw?? oh ya and i did find a hole in a metal hose the what hooked up to the egr valve or pump or choke pull off, looks like it was rusted. any ideas would be great.
I would still go through, and check all your vacuum connections, be sure things are set up the way they should be, it neer hurts to double check, and as you do... check each line... i'd be willing to put my money on a vacuum leak. not sure about 74 to 75 vacuum differences.... but here's vacuum routing for the 75' http://www.maverickcomet.com/defaultCookies.asp?T=332027000&UserName=&dock=&Offset=240 after double checking everything, start with your base idle... get it set... and then work with the curb idle, get it set about 3/4 the way in, and back it out with a helper car in gear running, until you achieve desired idle speed in gear. if push comes to shove, i'd at LEAST rebuild the carb, and as cheap as vacuum line is, i replace mine every couple years just to be safe... that and i'm a stiff when it comes to looking new and nice. Come to think of it... buddy's torino had a problem in gear as well, and it was caused by a vacuum hose collapsing, when it collapsed, it caused a hairline crack that was allmost unseen, to open enough to let air in... and played hell with the idle
thanks im going to have to check or replace those lines. the car sounds sweet in park put it in drive and she's dancing like elvis.
