Straight alignment still pulls to right, due to crown of road.

From last look... even the 10' dodge rams, are still running frame on, not uni... though you "could" adjust the "belly bar" under the motor... in a RWD or 4x4 app it won't make such a drastic effect on the alignment? Could be totally wrong, new at this, trying to understand and learn... I know at work... i see them all the time and they are still running what looks to me like the typical body-on-frame setup, not a UNI... making the cradle... nonexistant then? though on RWD apps, the "cradle" adjustment i'm familiar with involves repositioning the lower control arms to compensate for alignment problems... typically from... well... siezed hardware?

 

I/WE have sorta steered off in Scott's thread . Yes, he has a body on frame. I was asking a general question in response to some general conversations and comments.
Anyway, let's wait and see what Scott finds out..:Handshake

 

Haha we did... but hi-5 i learned something today, time for bed, and scott i hope you get her figured out, and hopefully thorugh our brainstorming you find something to clue in to how to fix it! I'd start with the tire pull, that's probably going to be your easiest to troubleshoot and knock out.

 

Yea, since they are 20s

 

I dont do front end work on my bigger trucks but did have some work on the one ton ford van, the mans good not to keep my work trucks for more than a day or two, But he was behind that day and said your trucks ready but im swamp can you come get the truck take it down the street for alignment before he closes. My point is the truck drove bad till after the alignment. Two years now no new tires???

 

Sorry I let this go for so long. Ended up under my radar.

Yes, Dodge truck, I added the caster alignment concentric kits, and took it back in for straightening. He let it go WAY out of caster. Again, no printout.

Second guy said caster was at4.8, called the first guy his printout in file said 4.5. Supposed to be 3.8. At least I think that is what the numbers were. Either way, it was off that much.

Tires are new. I have about 1000 miles on them, and am not fond of swapping side to side to achieve that nice noisy porcupining. I can swap them front to back and see if the pull goes away.

Would that accomplish anything, going front to back?

 

Yes. I would do one side at a time to see what it does.
The caster # has a spec but remember, it's not a wearing angle. What matters is that they are close to the same and can be off from each other depending on IF that's what it needs.
Let's say the spec calls for 4.0. .. I would try for LF 4.0 and RF 3.5. .. BUT, if I drive it and the #s are 2.0 and 1.5.. It has no pull.. I leave it, providing all other #s are good. If camber is out then I try to keep my caster #s as they are unless they change drasticly when I go to correct the camber.
Lets say I don't know what the spec is .. I try for even with .5 less on right. I would measure and use the #s it has to determin what is then work off of those #s.

 

I guess first thing I will do is take it back to the last guy and ask him how he adjusts for crown in road. If he says toe, then I go somewhere else. If he says caster or camber, then I will let him correct it.

I will print out the suggestions you guys made about the +.1/-.1 fix and see if he says the same thing.

 

I am not one to compensate using toe or camber. The camber maaaybe but definetly not toe. I also say .5 difference in caster.
Not having the print out is affecting my opinion about the tire swap. I just don't know if that's what needs to be tried to see if that helps. It could help and still be out..

Doing alignments used to be my passion lol. I would open an alignment shop if I could. ..

 

Dropped it off. We will see what happens in a couple hours...

 

Guy says adjustments are maxed out on truck. Cannot correct for crown of road. This sound legit?

 

I never have the the alignment compensated for crown, (left lane hammer down most of the time) but I never had a pull to the right either. If the road had a real large crown i would get a slight drift.

Doesn't Dodge 4X4 still have a solid front axle? if so I think the only way to adjust caster and camber is to rotate a tube that the upper ball joint goes into and in most cases that thing is frozen solid.

 

If it's maxed out then I wonder if bushings are sagged or what is going on. No icon for "This thread is worthless without a print out"
Try this. Park the truck on a flat open area and put the steering wheel straight. Now get out and look at the imaginary flat line from the front outter edges to the rear flat side edges of the tires (faces). Imagine a flat plate as the surface of the wheels and see if the front and rear flats are even front to rear. Move your head to and fro from center of the bumper to the side of the truck to help find the flats. Use the rears as the good flats for comparison. We are looking at the toe angles. Let me know if calling you will help cause that sounds confusing lol.

Crown compensation is the result of slight drift to the right. If there is a constant pull there is something else going on.
My 03 4x4 has half shafts.

 

This place is Goodyear, affiliated with Gemini. I can go anywhere they have a shop and get it looked at for free.

I will try another shop and have them do a free inspection and printout.

It seems like I get a different story each time I go somewhere else.

 

if u dont mind the drive to lake charles, bring it to the dodge dealer where i work and i can personally do your align. im level 4 steering/susp trained. can get you a print out too