3/8" bolts will not work - they are too big. ARP has some 11/32" bolts that are the best Hipo configuration for 289 - 302. They have been used on performance fords for as far back as the early 70s and work fine. They leave enough metal on the rod to take 350 hp for sure.
Paul's right on the rod bolt sizes. Boring the bolt area on a stock rod to fit the 3/8" bolts will actually weaken the rods. Unless you can get a set of the FRPP rods that came with 3/8" bolts then go with the 11/32" bolts. Resize the rods, add the bushing to the pin end and balance the rod set. We have run them like that to over 450 hp with no problems.
Are the stock size arp going to be ok? I don't think I'll be able to get 450 out of it. But I don't want it to come apart and waste everything I've invested so far. In other wards I want the bottom end to be as strong as it can be without replacing the rods. So far I'm on track with the budget portion of this build. Machine shop says everything checks out good and we will (he will start boring it hopefully next week or the week after.(I'm waiting on the pistons now, maybe thurs.
Never used the 5/16" bolts but I really don't see a problem as long as you use ARP hardware. If they make wave-loc bolts in that size I'd use them. Haven't looked at their catalog lately.
I've used the 5/16" ARP's in one build and it had no problems reving to 7500. And I even swapped the bolts out in an assembled short block without resizing the rods. The block gave up before the rods did.
Okay, this is what I found for wave-loc. This is the #154-6402, summit racing. Will I have to do any more machining to use these? Or can I instal them myself? I like the rating on these (200,000) They also have the arp replacement bolts (a couple of dollars diff.) Clutch kit tomarrow and then he is gonna ballance it for me and I can bring it home. Are there any other suggestions or areas I should look at closer? Its looking like it may take a little longer to finish than I had first thought. (added parts list and out of town work) And thanx guys for all the help
Silly question, what is a scraper tray? when you have the induction off, is it the part that runs down the middle and holds the retaining clips on the rockers in?
I got the block back this week and it has been bored and the crank, rods/pistons all ballanced. Now I'm shopping for parts. (1-part at a time) Comp cams recomended these, cam #35-246-3, springs#986-16 and 1431-16 rockers. Question I have is about the rod and main bearings? I'm planning on running this thing pretty hard from time to time and I'd like to get a 1/4 mile time for it to use as a bench mark for improvements. What rod and main bearings are best for it? Any suggestions?
I'm not sure what kind of clearances you are running, so if they are pretty much stock spec's I'd go with Clevite 77's. I have been running these bearings since dirt was new and never had any issues directly related the bearings.............................putting them in; scuffing them, chamfering the edges and measuring them to make sure you have the clearances you want/or have asked for, checking crank endplay and rod side clearances are all a critical part of putting the motor back together and having it live...................it's called blueprinting. Also, whenever I have put a crank in any motor I had had it index'd, shot peen'd, oil holes chamfered and then micro polished. I assume that had it checked for straighness before it was ground and after, then I prefit the main bearings, making sure the tangs seat all the way in the block, then also check the oil holes in the bearings and make sure they match with the oil holes in the block....................if they don't match exactly......you will need to either grind the block or the bearings. I also put the bearings in, put a magic marker at each side and in the middle and spin the motor over by hand once...................to see the pattern created. I could go on but I assume you already know most of this...................but if not then ask questions. I know you sent these to a good machine shop, but when it comes to putting a motor together I never trust anyone except myself. As the old saying goes........DIRTFooT......Do It Right The First Time. IMHO IMHO
