Hello! I was wondering if anyone could tell me if they make a after market leaf springs for the maverick with maybe 5 leafs or a off set leafs to the front? I am working on eliminating wheel hop on my 1970 Street and strip Mav with a Built 302 with around 400 hp and WC t5 and a 8.8 rear. My set up now has helped but has not gotten rid of my wheel hop. I have a home made pinion snubber and a set of hellwig traction control helper springs. I have herd before a good set of leaf springs with the leafs offset towards the front as some mopars have will eliminate wheel hop with out needing traction bars or cal tracks or anything of that nature. So could anyone please tell me if someone makes after market springs for a maverick it would be a big help, Thanks!!
what rpm are you trying to launch at? Any traction/slapper bars? A good set of shelby type bars would probably do the trick. Cal tracs and a mono leaf spring are proven performers too.
if you dont want to use traction bars then you can use an extra maverick main leaf. Just cut out the eye part and bolt it to your existing setup. Also your 70 Does not have staggered shocks which is hurting you. Get a set of staggered shock plates from someone on here. Its what the mustang guys do to reduce well hop.
Ok that sounds good thank you.. Its ashame i just cut up the old original 3 leaf set to make my snubber... Whoops... live and learn i guess. And for the first reply I am just getting this car built so i really dont have a good set launch rpm for it yet.. This was dumping the clutch around 5 grand to see what happens.
i put new 4 leaf springs on mine, still had wheel hop. then added traction master traction bars ( the kind used on shelby gt 350 ) no more wheel hop. they only cost 100.00.
you can clamp the front leafs so they wont be able to slide. this usually helps with wheel hop also. ive see people take some 1/8th flat bar cut it so 1/4-1/2 and inch over hanges the sides of the springs. then drill a hole each side to put bolts through. cheap and easy mod that is effective.
motor mounts can also cause wheel hop...... Wheel hop really comes down to bushing stiffness....from the motor to the suspension..... That is the real cause of wheel hop. Traction bars and the such work but they just cover up the problem..... Some people do not like stiff bushings as ride quality suffers.....so they make pinion snubbers and traction bars compensate.....it works....but again it is just a cover for the real problem and it's original source!!!
Thank you all so much for your quick replys and the great info i will let you know how it goes as this car is a work in progress. I had bought it with a strait six auto about 2 years ago. I will put a picture up but its taking me a while to figure out this forum
I highly recommend the CalTracs. I'm running a 347 stroked, toploader, 3.89 gears, stock leaf springs. Absolutely no wheel hop. Ran 6.97 8th with 1.57 60ft. I'm a believer in them. Regular traction bars didn't do diddly for me.
Just one comment on the article that was linked.... with the axles that we use in the rear of our cars the toe angle doesn't change - it can't because the wheels are kept parallel by the rigid housing. Camber on the rear axle also remains constant. The only alignment that can change is the alignment of the axle with respect to the centerline of the car and the caster - if you can call rotating the solid axle a change in caster. Spring wrap causes wheel hop - torque that wraps the spring to a point where the forces overcome the traction and then release. The best way to get rid of wheel hop is to use thicker, one piece leaves or a mechanical means of preventing the axle from twisting. 3 or 4 link suspensions will do this abd so will properly built ladder bars. Ladder bars have the advantage of lifting the front of the car which adds weight to the rear end.
