sweet so i can use the stock drive shaft ( just with a new yoke) and save on money ok so when i go to look at the trans and im leaning to getting it he has a bell housing, a high performance clutch and new pressure plate. and he says he has a flexplate too for it what flex plate would i need for a stock 302 from 72 thou like the oz. balancing ??? i think i know someone with clutch petals for the mavericks. what would be the best shifter and linkage kits to get?? ( that is if he doesnt have one to go with it) is there anything im missing...
Flexplates only for an automatic. Manual transmissions require a flywheel. And if the one he's got is used, I strongly recommend you buying a new one. Old flywheels are dangerous and if they've been resurfaced too many times, you loose clutch adjustment. Hurst is about the only game in town for a shifter and installation kit (you'll need both) Last install kit I bought ( about 9 years ago) was about $130, the shifter will cost you at least that much for a new one. After you add everything up, you may want to keep your C-4
yea im not going to really add it all up just get the parts as i get the money and just know that it will be amazing to have a four speed in a maverick. im was going to get a new trans anyway here in the next couple months and a rebuilt new trans with full manual valve body a ratcheting shifter and higher stall converter did the adding on that and was going to be about 1600 so figured at the most this would be about the same just way cooler yea i meant flywheel ok so ill have to find out later what flywheel to get... a 20oz right for a stock 302?
Nobody has said it yet so I will, You need all the clutch linkage to... and some of it is a little hard to come by... The cultch pedals you mentioned seem to be the easiest to find.. The rods, z-bar, springs, and the frame and engine side z-bar mounts are tough to find... And the dust boots.....
28 for a pre 81 302, 50 for later models. Unless you have a stroked later model, most stroker kits are balanced for 28. I plan to convert mine to a Toploader 4 speed later on. But I think I'm going with a McCleod hydro throwout bearing setup. I've got the transmission & bearing from my V8 Ranger now. Just waiting for cooler weather to tackle it. The transmission needs a rebuild and I've yet to research what and how to go about the master cylinder.
ok the 4 speed im looking at the guy was going to have put in his 67 mustang so he have a mechanic go thur it to get it ready for his car said it has all new bearing and syncs and gone thur to make sure it was good to go he decided not to but it in his mustang cus the motor is making over 400 hp and heard that some Chrysler manual trans would be strong and have a wider ratio. now this is a side loader so its not as strong as a toploader i know that but im only making maybe 200hp at the most in my car so thats going to work for me. he has a new raceing clutch and pressure plate that he bought for when he put it in his car thats still in a box and the bell housing came with the trans when he got it. so thats the story of the trans that i was told ok so id need to track down all the linkage, cus ill need a clutch fork and i guess the bearings that hold the clutch fork. what about a cable set up?? i wouldnt need all that linkage would i ?
A cable clutch setup is for a diaphragm style pressure plate. It will stretch and break if used with a 3 finger PP. Hydraulic linkage will be the cheap way out.
The C4 is about 24.4" from the bell housing mounting surface to the end of the tail housing. You would have to add the depth of the bell housing to that figure for an overall length.
yea i measured from the front of the bellhousing to the end of the tail shaft and got 30 1/2 give or take but its pretty damn close to that and the 4 speed was 30 5/8 if i remember right.
A cable setup needs to be reversed to use with the older bellhousings. The stock setup with the T5 bell is made so the cable pulls the clutch fork against the diaphram, the fork pivot is on the passenger side of the bell, instead of the mechanical setup used with the older bells which has the pivot set(between the input and drivers side of the bell) to where it operates in a rocker motion. And forget using a T5 bell, it's too deep for the T10 input shaft. Come think of it, reversing the cable to where it pulls from the backside is going to run you into interferance isssues with the shifter linkage.
