My car developed a low/idle rpm missfire today. I believe it might be a sparkplug. It seems to run fairly well once the rpms are above idle. I have had the car a year and dreaded challenging the plugs w/ the long tube headers; Im at the point now where it's not an option. The car was running fine so I let them be. I put a 3/8 size socket on the rear drivers side plug shortly after I got the car and that plug wud'nt budge. I don't know how old the plugs are or if they were new when I got the car. Before today the car ran real smooth and has no issue w/ any kind of smoke out of the exhaust, meaning, I don't think it's a valve issue. 1.) Im wondering wud soaking the plug area w/ some kind of solvent (WD40) or something wud aid in removing the plugs along w/ stepping up to 1/2" size wrenches. 2.) I searched some old post on plugs and only found comments on brands of plugs folks prefer. I have to get mine out B4 I get to this point. 3.) I will replace my ign wires also while Im at it to aid in ign upgrade. Any ideas on removal appreciated.
Just my opinion here... Penetrating lubricant (i.e. WD40) may help a little IF you get it right in on the threads. "Soaking" wont help much, but multiple correct applications may help it penetrate further with each application. It will probably smoke a little when you finally get it running again as the oil burns off. Moving from a 3/8" to 1/2" ratchet wont make as much difference as just getting more leverage to break the plug loose. Slip a 2' long piece of iron pipe over your ratchet handle to multiply your force and make absolutely sure you are using the RIGHT size socket or you may round off the corners of the spark plug hex head and then you have a real problem. While you're doing this, why not replace all the common wear items in your ignition system? Plugs, wires, points, maybe even a new distributor rotor and cap, and a new ignition coil. This stuff is relatively cheap ($70-$100 total, assuming you have basically stock equipment), easy to replace, and will give you more piece of mind down the road.
When I change my plugs, I use a spark plug socket, the can be turned with an open end wrench. Makes it much easier than a ratchet. I start all my plugs by hand, and make sure the socket has one of those rubber inserts.
This is the way I do mine, when I put them back in sometimes I will slip a rubber hose over the porcelain and turn it while holding plug at correct angle, if plug doesnt turn in freely dont try and force it, cross threading isnt good , I always put some never seize on the threads before installing the plugs. Also I have tall valve covers and it makes it a little easier to change plugs if I take them off. Of course you could always undo the motor mounts and jack motor up a little to gain a little more space
X3. Much easier than trying to fool with a ratchet. If they are tight, use a combo box end open end wrench on the socket. Then use another long box end over one side of the open end for extra leverage, being careful not to let it slip off.
Ratchet with a swivel head helps also. As far as breaking that stuborn plug loose, leverage is everything.
If you've got stock iron heads, no amount of penetrating oil will help. It's going to take a lot of leverage to break it free, but once it pops loose, it'll spin out with your fingers 99% of the time. Use a 1/2" breaker bar and wear gloves, that'll save you from busted knuckles when it pops loose.
I've always used anti-seize on my plugs, and never had a plug get stuck, so I'll keep using it. I use Dielectric grease usually as well.
if your going to use antisiez use the copper. the silver insulates the ground connection. i will put a dab of motor oil on the threads. i always put dieeletric grease on both ends of the plug wires and coil wire.
