Torque to Yeild Bolts

What are the torque specs if I use these bolts? do I torque to factory specs?

 

http://www.freeasestudyguides.com/a1_4.html

 

Hey Great Nice reading... I guess my next question is... Anyone know what the torque specs and procedures are when using the torque to yield bolts on a 302? thanks

 

Just a question, why are you using Torque to Yield bolts and not studs or regular head bolts?

I have only used torque to yield bolts once on a 4.3l Chevy V6.
What you do is to torque them to a specific torque with a real torque wrench.............like 35/45ft lbs, then put on this torque to yield adapter on you 1/2" drive and rotate the pointer on this thing for x number of degrees...................like 75 degrees more or 120 degrees more.
The initial torque setting is just to snug the head down against the head gasket, then you go from there with the degrees thing.
An if you want to change the heads or take them off..................you need to purchase new bolts because they are only used once.
You would have to consult a motor manual to find out what the initial torque was and then the number of degrees you would go after that.
If it were me, I'd just go with regular head bolts................IMHO

 

yeah I think you're right>> i should just go with regular head bolts...one of the tech guys at ford racing said to go with them ...not sure why, i guess i will call him on monday,

 

1. Flanged Hex Head Bolt (new bolts required)

• 1. Tighten all bolts in sequence to 34-47 Nm (25-35 Lb-Ft).
  2. Tighten all bolts in sequence to 61-75 Nm (45-55 Lb-Ft).
  3. Tighten all bolts in sequence an additional 1/4 turn (85-95 degrees) .

ford used them in 5.0's 93 and up. its a pain to replace them but for a
stock design they perform quite well. especially as a rod bolt.

 

I called ford racing just to be sure about the specs and Starsky74 is right on with that...
they also indicated that the torque to yield bolts have a greater clamping force than traditional head bolts or studs... I will give them a try and see what happens...

 

The reason that torque to yield bolts have more clamping force is that they are torqued to the point that they actually on the verge of failure. You could do the same thing with any bolt - as long as you replace them instead of reusing them.
A method called torque and turn is often used when replacement is not required but offers the advantages of torque to yield bolts. The bolts are torqued to a low value to set them and then turned a number of degrees to offer a clamping force that is the same for each bolt. It is unaffected by torque changes due to the thread conditions or the lubricant used or even the contaminants that may be on the threads.

 

Just because a bolt calls for torque plus angle doesn't mean its torque to yeild, torque plus angle gets tighter, torque to yeild is torqued to whatever spec and the angle stretches the bolt to the point of its elasticity but doesn't get any tighter than the last ft lb it was torqued to.

 

these bolts suck!!!! I torqued them down first to 35 then 55 then I realized I didnt have a degree thing for my ratchet so I decided to just use the clock method, from 3 oclock position to 6 oclock position... not happening, either I'm not strong enough to turn it past 4 oclock or I need a longer ratchet.... either way they are coming out and going with standard head bolts... what a hassle and set back over some stupid bolts... I could have been done already!!! Stay away from these bolts...they really are a PITA!!!
I should have listened to "olerodder"

 

Here is a great article on head bolts, and TTY bolts.
I have to say that I don't use head bolts but do use studs instead, even on the flathead.

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Art...sealing_starts_with_proper_head_bolt_use.aspx





IMHO