I was wanting to get some diff. heads. It was sugested that I go with the gt40p heads. With either one of these heads will I have to make any changes? I have a 302 with edelbrock 280 cam, holley 600cfm carb and edelbrock rpm intake. I also have long headers(not installed yet). My car is a 72 comet gt. I'm guessing that the compression is around 8.5:1. What kind of hp gain can I expect? If anyone has any info or suggestions please feel free to add in.... MONEY IS TIGHT ON THIS BUILD. I want to get the most bang for my buck....
Use the search tab and search GT40P and all will be clear. I was looking at a set also until I did some reading. The plug location on the P heads create issues with fitment so do your homework before dropping any money on them.
any head besides the gt40P will work fine. If you want most bang for your buck then look for a set of rebuilt E7TE or GT40 heads, sometimes you can get lucky and pick them up for $300-$500. If you wan to buy a set and recondition them yourself it can get pretty pricey. at least out here. Pair of junkyard gt40 heads(if you can even find them) $100 GT40 rebuild kit from ford $300 Machine work(depending on the shop) $200-400 so your gonna have to end up spending between $600-800 on the pair of heads. Now the alternative is to pick up a set of edelbrock or trick flow heads. they're a better design right out of the box, they're new so there's no downtime. They have a warranty, they're aluminum so they weight less. And they outflow the stock ones which means they'll make more power. E-street heads are $973.95 trick flow ones are $997.95(they were on sale so prices may vary by now) http://www.musclemustangfastfords.c..._edelbrock_e_street_cylinder_heads/index.html http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/hrdp_1003_small_block_ford_heads/index.html
i got a set of the e street heads. right now there on sale at summit and come with an edelbrock racing shirt. they are very nice heads. and the whole set only weighs 64lbs so... its your choice and good luck
Yes I do like the sound of that. I'm into loosing wieght. I have been looking into edelbrock top end kits
The GT40's don't cause header fitment issues (I think). What heads do you have currently? Also, what transmission and gear ratio do you have in your setup and what is your long term goal for this project? This info is important to help with suggesting the best use of your tight funds. For instance, a rearend gear ratio change will usually pep up your rides acceleration considerably if you currently have stock gears. Ratio choice depends on driving habits, etc. and consideration should be given to what will (1) work with your current setup and (2) work with what you evenually want the project to be. So first thing to do is define your end goal, and then you can pick the right upgrades along the way that make the most sense and give you the most bang along the way. Without doing this you will surely buy some parts that you end up changing out because they just don't match up and that sucks when your on a budget. Good luck - Jamie
GT40s are fine, bolt right up. It is the P heads that are a hassle. I got a set of GT40s and swapped the springs, retainers, locks, and valve seals, and used lapping compound on my valves (hooked a drill to the top of the valve stem, spun it while pulling lightly on the valve until the seats were clean and silver all around). Heads cost me $200 off a local mustang forum. $32 for the springs, 7 for the locks, 15 for the retainers, and 26 for the seals. A couple more bucks for a couple cans of spray brake cleaner and spray paint, and entire deal cost me around $300. Pulling 330 hp at 6500 rpms, and spins to 7000 rpm without valve float. If that isn't Budget Building, I don't know what is!!!
Right now I've got the factory 8" rear w/2:79 gears. The trans is the original 3-speed on the floor. I'm taching around 3000 at 73 mph. I'd like to keep as road worthy as pos. but still have enough punch to get the f*** up and go.(I don't want to spend time and money fixing stuff that breaks). 0-90 mph doesn't take much now, but its not enough for me. As for the heads, I think they are stock. Single exhaust, and I can feel the restriction that is causing now in the higher rpm range. (I do have a set of long headers in my garage now for it)...........As for gt40 heads and valve clean up on a budget, MAN YOU ARE RIGHT ON TARGET FOR MY BUDGET NEEDS, and I like the way you did it too.
i think gt40p's are off explorers but there for the most part the same as gt40's except that the sparkplugs are a P.I.T.A on gt40p's because the manifolds go over the spark plugs i believe...someone correct me if im wrong
Check out the pics in this MUCH older thread...http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?p=164408#post164408 Don't get misled by first pic. That is the passenger side. The other two pics are the driver side. IMPOSSIBLE to reach the plugs. Period.
If you're taching 3 grand at 73, then you need to shift into 3rd gear. You're still in 2nd. My Comet tachs 3 grand at 70 with 3.50's.
I guess i got lucky when i bought my 96 Explorer as an engine donner for my Mav. i didn't know this info untill reading some posts about this gt40 vs gt40p heads after doing a little studing i found out they were not p heads!:bananamanengines setting in place with the shorty headers i bought from Jegs. lookin good ! (Still a long way to go though)but lovin every min of it.
