ok well you can look at my older posts all the way back when i first got the car and im still having the problem. drove the car to school today just to make sure it ran good enough to go to prom tonight which starts in an hour and yea not going to be able to drive it so night starts off bad. but it ran good to school and back and as i pulled in the drive way ( mind you it takes me 20 miles to and back from school ) but as i pulled in it died. when i first got the car as long as i was holding the gas open it was fine then when i let it off to idle it cuts out. and if i try to start the car with in like an hour of it just running it wont idle at all i have no vacuum leaks everything is replaced and i cant really test it again because now i cant get it started and idleing with out holding the gas open. the guy who had the car before me put the carb on the car ( an holley 4 barrel) and he f-ed up the floats in it like he said he turned it all the way down to lift the floats and he bent it so had it rebuilt. well when the car was running i set the floats a couple days ago i coulded get the float to come up to where it needs to come so i can see the fuel through the sight. and if i have it where it needs to be the car will not run. but i had it idling ok too it jumped around randomly only like 200rpms and i think thats ok for a carb car. so what do i do know is the carb just trash now i mean the carb has been this way since i bought the car and ive replaced everything else thats all that is the same as before. if so what carb is the easiest to tune and can be trusted for a daily driver that is also a 4v???
holleys are pritty simple, you may have a gas leak or one of the vacumm line plugs may have come off.
Years ago we ran Holley carbs in our circle track cars. One thing that I recall was that, if we ever backfired up through the carb, there was a fairly good chance that the power valve blew out. That power valve is needed from idle up to a certain point in the throttle. It will run bad at idle and low throttle.
If you keep blowing power valves, you can buy a power valve plug. I've had good luck w/ them Make sure your intake is tight. I had a motor run like crap once, and found out one of the bolts that hold the intake down was backed off just a bit and caused a vacume leak. Only way I found it was I had sprayed some cleaner on the intake where I had spilt oil, and was hosing it off while the truck was running and seen it bubble.
ok well i guess ill need to get a new carb then i mean i understand with the power valve and all but my floats wont even get to where they need too and i think something is bent there out of just rebuilding it
I wouldn't toss the carb. what you get in a rebuild kit will usually fix a carb, unless it has a crack in it (which would be unusual) Maybe try having someone else rebuild it for you?
If your engine is mostly stock, (302) go with a 500 cfm Edelbrock. If it's got a better cam and other mods (still a 302) go with a 600 cfm Edelbrock. Get new or factory reman. Bolt it on right out of the box, and go. At the most you may have to adjust the idle mixture. Stay away from used carbs, you would be buying someone elses problem, they are being sold for a reason.
Your right out of the box carbs will run alot better than one someone has tinkered with. But if you know what your doing then it's no big deal to buy a used one. If you don't know what your doing, trading yours in for a rebuilt one from Holley/Edelbrock would be the best thing to do in my opinion as well. I have several different holley carbs and an edelbrock laying around... No use for any of them. Some are single feed, dual feed, dual metering block, single metering block etc... between 600 and 750 cfm.. None of them had a problem, I just wanted something different. Not all carbs are sold because they were a problem carb. It just may be they outgrew their current setup.
I wud agree not all carbs are discarded/removed/sold or whatever. But if I want to ride w/ peace of mind I wud go for new carb if the finances allowed, 2nd. choice fac reman. and last wud be do a rebuild kit if I wanted to keep the present carb and experiment with it. Im not to keen on aftermarket rebuilds but that's just me. If ur carb is cracked the throttle plate shafts are leaking air or air is coming in anywhere except the air horn u'll never get it idle.
My bet is they did what you asked of them, that is why you kept them. I would also bet that if one did not preform up to your standards, it would be sent packing.
Actually, I kept them due to the fact that many people are tightwads and don't want to pay for anything. Why should I give a carb away for $20 or less to someone that wouldn't appreciate it. I'd rather them sit on the shelf and collect dust. I have one carb in particular that gave me hell from the get go... or so I thought. I rebuilt\tore it apart about 20 times before I figured out what it was. I was tempted to throw it away many many times but never did. Glad I didn't because turns out it wasn't the carb after all.
so new carb?? whats the easiest to tune and keep tuned right?? i have a stock 302 nothing fancy only thing is a high torque convert
