i hate the way this message board works! i spent an hour making a post, stopped to proofread it before submitting, and when i went back to make an error adjustment.. the whole damn thing disappeared! im sooooo pissed! anyhow... shortened version.. as i have NO faith my near stock, 72 V8 Maverick came equipped with AC. its never worked in the 5 years ive owned the car, but then again... the heater doesnt either. the heater core is rotten, so i bypassed it. i also have added a 4V carb which does not have the little solenoid connected to it. is it a necessary piece? the original owner of the car took very good care of it, and kept everything updated. i wish i could ask him about the AC. the compressor is not locked up. is this AC unit worth saving? i dont know if the system will hold a charge, and id like to know if there's an inexpensive way of finding out. it is all there. the car is ultimately gonna get 100 hp added to it. i had the same york unit in a 72 cougar. and although it seemed to function properly... it really was ineffective in heat above 90 degrees. here in tennesee.. its very humid, and the summers long. we can expect 90's daily from may until october. if this AC isnt likely to be anymore effective.. i might as well create some space in the engine bay and remove the excess weight. however.. it is all there, and appears (by eye) to be in good shape. is there a way of testing the system for under $50? could it be tested without installing the heater core (new one in trunk, old one useless- broken nipple) AC would be awesome. its only in the way now. id like to figure out some way of determining if its worth trying to salvage. i dont know how to do this. your advice is appreciated. if its gonna take more than $200 to get it going... i might as well remove it. if thats done... would anyone like to buy a maverick AC unit + plumbing? thanks ps... no previewing. sorry if this post needs editing. im not gonna get burnt twice. im still pissed and need to chill out. help me get some AC!
You can do a pressure drop test with dry nitrogen...its the cheapest way to find a leak. Finding and repairing the leaks can be a pain. The system compressor will not operate without a refrigerant charge as it has a low pressure cutout switch on it. The cheapest was out of this is probably gonna be to have it converted to 134A refrigerant. This is not that expensive as it requires just a few small component changes. There are some direct dropin replacements for R-12..."Hot ShoT" immediately comes to mind...you need to find an honest mechanic to advise you on your options.
Two things. Forget the 134 conversion in a 12 system. There not made to do this well. You can pull a vacuum on the system with a hand vacuum pump and a tight connection to either port as long as there is no pressure in the system. It takes about 10 minutes to pull a good vacuum in a tight system to about 25". If the system will not hold freon it won't hold 134 because the molecule size of 134 is even smaller and finds leaks faster than 12. For 134 use, the condenser is to small, the orfice the wrong size plus some other items. Saying mine works fine is not the same as with a good working 12 system because the temp will never get down to the 12 level. The way 134 is marketed is near criminal trying to intimate that R12 systems can be filled by just charging and not doing any other changes.
Again.............I have retrofitted Hundreds of cars gentlemen and never seen a problem when done correctly but then again I do this chit everyday.
AGAIN, i will tell YOU that unless you done the jobs correctly, you have done hundreds incorrectly "if you just refilled with 134". That just doesn't means flushing and replacing the compressor oil. No ifs and or buts. It's science not just guess work. There is no reputable A/C shop that will do the job in that manner and warrenty the job. One reason is high compressor failure rates. I will supply all the proof you need to back up the fact, as long as you have an open mind to accept it, otherwise I won't waist my time debating it. This has been done on a mulitudes of other cars that have never resulted in low temp at the air registers near what R12 gives in a good system. Just saying you done hundreds, is suspect as to the results. Just ask those who try it in the southwest, how good it works in traffic. I am on many other boards and see this consistantly. I have nothing against R134 but not to use it by just refilling an R12 sustem. Doing that is just B.S. Even PEP BOY'S tell you on there brochure that doing so will not result in the best results.
No body said I just filled them with R134a and was done with it If you read my post it siad "When Done Correctly". As far as science goes I understand how it functions soundly. There is a wrong way and a rightway to do it. My experience with it is enough proff for myself. YOU can read all the pamplets from pep boys you want I for one will continue like I have for the last 11 years to service the Automobile. I lived in phoenix for a little over a year so I understand the hot weather. When done properly a retrofit will perform close to what it did before the retrofit. Not all cars are retrofitted the same way either. I have all the information available to me to do the job correctly. Some manufactures require different methods. So take some r12 or r134a which ever you prefer and chill and then flame somebody that doen't know what they are talking about.
My experience with the conversion, when done correctly, has been good, I had my entire fleet converted in the mid 90's and they performed admirably until trade in time. I didn't mean to imply that 134a was a direct drop in replacement for R-12, it isn't. I had a seasoned mechanic at a shop that had been in business for years do the work. If he hadn't retired and sold the business he would still be doing my work. R-404 comes to mind as a direct drop-in replacement that can even be added over the R-12 with no complications. I added some to a friends Honda 3 years ago after repairing a leak, "tightened high side service valve", and it has worked fine ever since.
badmav, thank you for indicating you do the rettrofits correctly. There are away to many people on this board and others that think 134 can just be installed in a 12 system without other proper changes. That is my point of my reply to the original thread poster. I am also happy to see you indicate the rettrofits don't alway match the original system operation performance. I to have Ford's rettrofit info and not just phamplets. I bring this up because the market place is misleading people about retrofitting. I was in Auto Zone today and on there in house TV they are pushing just that action. It's sad to see this kind of marketing. Sorry to get your dander up. It has a way of clearing the air since I don't know anything about you. There is a lot of other nonsense that is being perpetuated here also but will leave that for another time.
probably removing it, is it sellable? im probably gonna just remove the AC unit + hardware. sounds too iffy, and i question how effective this unit would be even if operating @ 100% efficiency. AC's dont usually belong on old style hotrods. losing the weight and gaining accessability is probably the better option. assuming everything ive got is in good/reasonable condition... what would it be worth? could i sell it on this board? btw... thanks for your replies
Roadrage, I have to agree with Rcomet75. Keep the AC in the car. I realize it can be a pain but you will be so much happier when you are done. Especially if you already have all the parts. Install the new core, go over all the connections and find a bud that can help you with the retrofit. The end result will have you in a major chilled state. Ain't nothing like it.
