cool thanks guy ill try it out today just waiting for my new fuel tank and all to come in so i have a couple days more than normal shipping b/c of christmas. so yea but thanks guys
well i just went out and yea idk what wire is the ignsw the on side of the key from under the dash can doesnt that wire come from the starter solenoid???
Good looking classic tach and noticed it was for an 8cyl. Otherwise, if it's going on a six you'll have to divide the RPM by the lowest impedence (expressed in imperial ohm units) of the average voltage output from a factory installed Ford alternator manufactured during the year the tach was built. You'll then take the square root of that number and multiply by the number of cylinders you have resulting in a number that will approximate the rpm's (expressed as a whole number in base 7). If the number calculated results in a negative integer a bi-metal diode with a silicone based conducting surface will need to be tack-welded between the brake light activation sending unit and an 8 gauge solid-core copper grounding wire attached to the frame no farther than the length of your antennae from the nearest point of clearance relief. Once installed and before starting the engine for the first time, make sure your flux capacitor (if so installed) is in standby mode as opposed to full generating capacity. DO NOT be sitting in the driver's seat on the initial test as the "Fasten Seat Belt" light may or may not trigger a reverse polarity shift in the space time continuum resulting in the occupant of the drivers' seat being propelled into an alternate reality where all citizens drive genuine Shelby Mavericks with functioning tachometers and eat corn-on-the cob with spoons. There is no known solution to retrieve those individuals. :bananaman (I've got too much time on my hands)
yea dude that doesnt help at all so can i put the wire that goes to the ign key on from the starter solenoid?
I think the wire that goes to the starter solenoid is only "charged" when the key is fully turned. Once the car is started and the key springs back to the run position there is no longer a current flowing to the solenoid. You'll need to identify a wire under the dash (near the steering column is where my tach ties in) that has current when the key is in the run position. This keeps you from having to run another wire through the firewall. Use one of those $2 12V testers that looks like an ice pick you can get at autozone, advance auto even wal-mart. Turn the key to the run position Connect the alligator clip on the end to ground and insert the probe end into the different ports of the coupler where the wires emerge. When the light comes on, you've identified a wire that is "hot" with ignition. Turn the key off and test if the light goes off. If the light stays on with the key off then that wire is "hot" all the time and you need to find another one. (In my maverick the cig lighter is always "live" so it's not the right source for a tach) Once you've found a wire that is only "hot" when the key is in the run position, the last test is to see if the light blinks on and off when the turn signal is used. If it does, don't use that wire and move on to finding another that is steady on. Wires to look for are the ones that lead to something that only works when the car is running (fan blower, wipers, etc.)
