hi everyone! The 1975 Comet is doing well - the engine has just gotten better and better since I changed the push rods and got that cylinder firing! I have a lifter that's ticking, but after another oil change I recon everything will be great. The problem I am having right now is with the front brakes. I just swapped out the passenger front brake hose, as the existing one had a disintegrating jacket by the caliper. I changed it, and went through the bleeding process three times today - twice on the passenger side, once on the driver side, all front. The brakes are really, really "spongy." I have to push the pedal almost all the way to the floor to get the car to stop. From my research, I assume that the brakes just have air in the line, and I have to bleed them completely out. Perhaps I am just not going about this correctly. What I have done is as follows, in order: changed the passenger front brake hose removed and cleaned out the bleeder bolt replaced bleeder bolt tried the manual, 2-person pedal bleed, minimal success bought a hand-vacuum pump, bled pass. front side again with hand pump, test drove with what seemed like success bled drivers front line test drive showed very spongy pedal Maybe I'm not doing this right. Do I need to leave both bleeders open in the front when I do each? I have been jacking up one side, removing the tire, performing the bleed, replacing the tire, test drive. Lather, rinse, repeat for the driver's side. I keep wondering if there is something in my technique that is producing crappy results. When I am bleeding the line into the vacuum pump's fill cup, I get bubbles the whole time I have a vacuum. Am I looking for a constant stream of fluid with no bubbles in it at all? I've been doing this for like 8 hours, I haven't detected any leaks, and I don't believe the master cylinder is bad. I assume my technique is at fault. I have not let the master cylinder go dry, and I have been constantly filling the chamber during these bleeds. Any help or advice is appreciated. I hope everyone is doing great! Jim
I suggest bleeding the rear first, then go to the front. Bleed in this order: right rear, left rear, right front, left front. If it is still spongy you may possibly have a bad master. Have you bled at the master? If not, go there first, then the wheels.
I have not done the rear at all. My car was manufactured in November of 1974 - doesn't it a front system independent from the rear? I was only doing the front based on this information. I haven't bled the master, but I am pretty unsure as how to do that without removing it. Is it a necessary step? I'm in a cramped apartment 1-car garage with no room to maneuver, so I've been trying to only do the essentials. Can I bleed the master with it still installed? This is so far the most unpleasant fix I've tried to do!
dont test drive between each corner of bleeding. once your geting clear fluid at the each corner you have flushed the whole system of the old fluid. you may have a bad mastercylinder now. all the crud and muck that was in it keeping the seals working can get flushed out and cause this exact problem that you are having. there will be bubbels in the hose of the vac bleeder. they are just stuck there, they arnt coming out of the system. if bleeding all the way around doesnt fix it then you need a new master cylinder. you will probly find that the wheel cylinders will be leaking also for the same reasons. the way you check them is use a small flat head screwdriver to pull the rubber boot of the metal tube of the cylinder. if fluid poors out the wheel cylinder is leaking and needs replacement.
Yes, the rear is independant of the front but it only takes 10 minutes to bleed them. With the problems you are having you need to at least eliminate them. And yes, you can bleed the master on the car. Get someone to pump up the brake pedal and simply loosen each line connected to the master, one at a time, and let some fluid run out. I would do it 2-3 times on each line...again to just eliminate the possibility of air. I don't think that's the problem but you need to know for sure. Once you are sure there is no air anywhere you might as well figure on replacing the master if you still have spongy brakes.
you may want to try this. its the most effective way to bleed brakes that i have found. http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm
Too many things could be the problem. Do you have disc brakes? I have seen drum wheel cylinders cause air to bleed back into the system. Rear wheel brakes could need adjustment also. Where in Dallas are you?
Usualy. I can come by sometime and give a hand if you like. I'll be in Dallas this week Tuesday Wednesday and possibly Thursday as far as I can tell. I'll be working on a Lexus this week at the customers site so I will be pulling a small trailer with my tools on it.
I don't know what vac bleeder you are using, but I think if you see bubbles the whole time there is a vacuum on it, it's sucking air in the threads of the bleeder, not your system. Try opening the bleeders a small amount, un-screwing them too far will let them suck air through the threads. The best way I know to do it, is in the order already suggested, but I use an old 20oz drink bottle with a clear hose in it, directly on the bleeder valve, have someone pump the pedal about three time, hold pressure, THEN loosen the bleeder a small amount, pedal will drop some, tighten bleeder, repeat till no bubbles are seen in line. Woking in ford dealerships I had access to many expensive bleeders, but this was the most positive (and cheap!) system I used. Maybe this is the way you tried, but I wasn't sure what method you used. And if they are drums, check the adjustment...
Bleeding SUCCESS! FINALLY! I got it to work, I apparently just didn't have my patience on very tight. I bled all four, back right, back left, front right, front left. Each wheel got the vacuum treatment, and then I did the ol' pedal push and squirt method, which seemed to be the most effective way, albeit messy. This is the method I used: Worked like a charm! Tight, responsive, solid brakes! Thanks for all the help, everybody! Jim
I did the ol' pedal push and squirt method, which seemed to be the most effective way, albeit messy. That's why I use the old bottle with a hose in it, no mess!!! Great to hear it's fixed!
