I just got a rebuilt c4 transmission that had been sitting around for a couple years and the seller mentioned that it needed to be re greased inside the transmission. I was just talking to my brother and he didn't think that you had to grease the transmission that it was lubricated just from the transmission fluid. Could anyone help explain what to do? Also does anyone have any tips on removing and reinstalling it seems fairly straight forward but i haven't started yet so i don't really know what to expect.
Take it to the local trans shop and have them inspect it before you slap it in. Cost me $75 and he did an inspection and verified that it should work fine behind my 300hp motor, but most likely would NOT last long behind a 3500 stall. OK. Honest answer. Get a motorcycle jack. Then read this thread. I just did this a couple weeks back. http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=59878&highlight=motorcycle+jack+transmission It is pretty straightforward. Most important is make sure that the converter is securely seated into the transmission before installation. You will feel 3 or 4 bumps as it goes in. Do it 5 or 6 times, and measure how far in it goes between the face of the bell housing and the converter. When you find as deep as it will go in, put a couple quarts of Type F in it, and seat it again, and remeasure to make sure it is completely seated. It should have very little side to side play when fully seated. The rest is pretty straight forward.
Thanks for the info i will probably take it to the shop this week. How long should it take them to inspect it? Hopefully switching it out this weekend then just need to finish replacing steering and time to finally take her out.
If they aren't busy, it should be able to turn around in a couple of hours to a day. My guys were busy and it took 3 days before they could get to it.
The thing about an automatic sitting around for more than a few months is that the friction surfaces dry out. During the build process all friction materials are soaked for twenty minutes in oil. After sitting for as little as three to six months you need to re-soak the friction materials (clutches and bands) before running them. The best way to do this is to disassemble the transmission and re-soak them (complete dis-assembly) but there is an easier (and less costly) way. This is the special instruction sheet that I provide to my customers to prevent glazing of the friction materials on initial start-up: When a transmission sits for more than a few months the friction materials inside begin to dry out. In order to keep the friction materials from glazing when it is first used follow these instructions. Install the transmission as normal but instead of the normal filling process add 4 quarts of fluid to the transmission and then let the transmission sit for at least 20 minutes before starting. Start the engine and fill to between the full and add mark. Continue to monitor the fluid level for the next twenty minutes while the engine idles in park. DO NOT ENGAGE ANY GEARS FOR THIS PERIOD OF TIME. Make sure the fluid level is between the ADD and FULL marks and run it slowly through all the gears several times while still on the stands. Place the transmission in neutral and stop the tires from spinning before returning the shifter to Park. Check the oil level again while the engine still idling in park and top it off too between the ADD and Full marks. Check the transmission and all connections for leaks and then take the car off the stands and take it for a test drive. After your short drive recheck and fill the transmission. DO NOT OVERFILL. From this point forward you can treat the transmission like it was installed after a fresh rebuild. Following these instructions allows the clutches and bands to soak up the oil they need and prevents glazing that causes slipping and added heat. It also frees me from the job of tearing the transmission down to soak the friction materials for free like I have done in the past.
That sound a lot better then taking it apart and re oiling it. Now i just hope good weather is coming this weekend. What type of fluid would be the best to use? Will the torque converter fill with fluid from the transmission or do i need to put some in the my self? It does have some fluid in it now.
Yes! Type F is the fluid of choice unless you have a race only C4 that uses Kevlar or Carbon friction materials. Lubricate the front and rear seals with Vaseline, Put 2 - 3 quarts of fluid in the converter - even though it fills when idling in Park, having oil in it speeds up the process and gets the oil to the lube circuit faster.
