i know i will need an oil cooler, aluminum radiator, and electric fan and other things to keep my .60 ovr 302 cool but what would happen if i pust an electrick fan on either side of the aluminum radiator. the one on the back pullin and the one on the front pushing. how would a setup like that work? or would it be a waste of money?
I wouldnt think it would make much difference to the air flow. A good fan with a shroud is all you need like the taurus set up.
...I agree, unless you're running air conditioning. I do have a second fan on the front of mine, attached to the condenser.
I don't think you'll get an appreciable difference doing that. I guess it might help a little bit if you idle a lot, but at speed it would probably hinder air flow more than it helps. I ran a setup like that on another car and noticed no difference with or without the oil cooler fan.
facelessnumber is right. the front fan will block more air than it will push when going at freeway speeds. you want to seal off the radiator area so the air raming into it does not go around it. seal around the edges with wheather striping and also where the hood goes over the core support with wheather striping.
B&M makes an oil cooler that has a fan already on it. A bit pricey, but will cool a trans or engine oil a lot better than the radiator alone.
A fan in front and a fan on the back will restrict air flow. A puller fan works better than a pusher fan
i would go ahead and get a good aluminum radiator man. a 3 row. its worth it. my car is 60 over. hard to cool.
The hardest part to keep cool are the thinnest section of the upper cylinders. Hot spots that boil the water away before the spot is cooled is what causes damage to over-bored engines. They get hot and stay hot - a lot hotter than the rest of the iron around them and cause warpage and cracks.
ive learned that if you circulate the water too fast in a 302 it will overheat. its like running one without a thermostat. ive neer had any luck with it. could jus be me though
As far as I know there is no cure for local hot spots - wetter agents can help but you need to raise the boiling point of the coolant to the point where it won't boil off to really cure the problem. The steam produced by the water boiling off keeps the water away from the hot metal - like the beads of water on a hot grill. The best fix is to make sure the block is thick enough to keep it from happening in the first place. Sometimes it is a non-issue - the problem is that you will never know it is going on until the metal cracks. The higher the compression the more of a problem it is. X-raying the cylinders before boring is not always enough but it can tell you if the core shifted enough to make the over-bore impossible.
