my fuse box has a bunch of wires going to it and was wondering if their is a different way of setting this up??? i dont feel safe with a bunch of wires under the dash connecting to the fuse box that you can just pull out is this safe is their another way i have guage lights and the blower motor going to it also the fuse keeps on acting up... it has happened 2 times in the last week where i had to just touch the fuse and then i get spark to the motor... is it because i have so much stuff electronically in the car that it cant handle it any help will be greatly apreciated
I removed the fuses and soldered wires to the clips that in turn go to another fuse block mounted on the package tray. A lot easier to get at. Also ran a 10 AWG wire from the battery to a 30 amp relay that powers a second fuse block for accessories. The radio power lead energizes the relay when the key is on.
ok as long as it safe but what about the fuse problem???? it just stops sparking once in a while till i touch the fuse
that sparking is an indication that there is corrosion on the contacts. you should pull the suspect fuses and clean the contacts with sand paper or a rat tail file. puting in a auxilery fues panel is a really good idea as stated above.
Here's my solution. I built my own panel and stuck it under the dash (on a drawer slide) so it can be pulled out for access as needed. For a stock Mav, you'll only need what's outlined in yellow on the first pic. I've since added a "radio" sticker to the front plate... Russ
Hey Russ, how did you run the wires from the old fuse block to the new fuse block? you just bypassed them one by one? And where did you get that fuse panel from?
Thanks! I took one look at the factory fuse-box location (and barrel fuses) and knew that wasn't gonna work for me. Here's a pic of the factory fuse-box once separated. The orange part is the firewall connector and stays as-is. The black part is the fuse section, what I did was remove all the wiring (save the shell!) including the clips for the fuses. A wiring diagram is most recommended! Next, peel back the harness tape and separate out the wires you just unpinned (most will be long enough to relocate w/o splicing). Once you have the new fusebox located, it's just a matter of running those wires to the new box. When it's done, you'll need to reconnect the now empty black outer shell to the orange piece and reinstall it in the firewall. The fuse-box, wiring clips and fuses were made up from parts from Del-City. I might have $25.00 in the whole thing, not including additional wire scraps, solder, shrink tubing, etc... Russ
so your car doesnt run or shuts off? once again its probly corosion on the fues contacts. try cleaning them and see if that helps.
that is a great idea. can you post a more detailed description of how it was done. i get the basics of what you did but have just a few quams about cuting up the stock harness and keeping the wires steight.
My car is sooo far from stock that would be hard to do. Really, all you need is a good wiring diagram, patience, planning, and materials. I bought a small butane torch ($15.00) and used small gauge resin core solder and quality shrink tubing. The hardest part was finding scraps (of the correct color) to extend certain wires, although that's not a necessity. I snagged a spare dash harness off E-Bay for $5.00 (cost me $15.00 shipping!) so it was covered. I do have a master wiring diagram (for my car) that you're welcome to look at. If interested e-mail me for it, I can't post it here because it's a 3.5 meg PDF file. I prolly have 100 hours in that diagram though... BTW, I can't even imagine trying this with the dash in the car! Russ
