Tried to install a Pertronix and "Oo-WWWOOuCH** my leg... it BURNS!"

I ordered Pertronix ignitor today, I hope my install goes in without a lot of stinging pain.

 

there might be a bee in every box as a joke !

 

Yah.... I learned to hate points this year... wish they had that "trap door" to set dwell like GM had. I've had to set them every 3-4 weeks.

I only installed the ignition module and it explicitly said don't remove or change the resistor - primarily if you have an OEM coil and don't want to fry it - however, the Pertronix module can take 6 or 12 volts. If you upgrade the coil later - like I will - I think at that point you can take out the ballast resistor and run it at higher voltage (more spark, bigger gap, etc).

 

That's why I read the instructions TWICE.... like a previous reply here, if you replace the points ONLY then don't remove the resistor because the Pertronix runs fine on 6 volts (I *THINK* my 6 cyl Ford OEM coil starts with 12V to the coil to get the engine running, then the ballast heats up and drops the coil voltage to 6V to make it last longer... a mechanic may correct me on this). 12V on old ignitions tend to burn out the capacitor and reduce the life of the points.

However, the Pertronix can operate on 12V like newer electronic ignitions, so you can upgrade to an MSD, Flame aThrower, or some other higher powered coil and THEN remove the ballast.

You cannot go the other way - put a high powered aftermarket coil in with the old ignition points because you'll fry them, or the ballast will just cut out the higher voltage anyhow.



I learned all this in grade 12 auto shop. If I wasn't stoned all the time I might still remember it.

 

Thanks!... hornets and wasps are something ya gotta live with... but I know from ANOTHER post here ***NOT*** to get stung by my ignition. Burning skin rash aside, that metal taste in your cavities is a real lesson with 20,000V running up your arm.

And as for the coil - I tested mine - (primary?) winding still good over 1-3 ohms resistance - when they short and the resistance drops apparently you can damage the ignition. Again, I think the instruction sheet was very concise and mentioned testing the coil.

And it has "made in America" written on it (no "Chinglish" typing mistakes in the manual either). Two of my last three sets of points were erratic or faulty.

 

Installed my pertronix over 10 years ago, I remember keeping my old points and condencer in my tool box in case it failed, don't know how long they last, ad says never change points again but I figgered that was because u didn't have points, it didn't say never change pertronix again, not much that could go wrong with magnets I guess, any way it has been 1 of the best mods I have done!

 

yeah before the pertronix one there was one i had purchased that used laser tech. the only problem with that one was the module mounted outside of the dizzy and was not well water proofed. i burned three of them (all under replacement warranty) before they went out of business. went back to points each time to get home. so when i first got the pertronix i was a little skeptical. i still have unused points in my trunk..

 

I learned all this in grade 12 auto shop. If I wasn't stoned all the time I might still remember it.[/QUOTE]


LOL, I can relate to that one.

 

i know with the pertronix in my sand rail if you leave the key on without the engine running the unit will burn up in about 3 minutes.happend as i was unloading it from the trailer and then when i put the spare in,and left the key on.



also never been stung by anything but a bee.

 

i know its more work, but for $100 you can get a GM HEI distributor for your ford v8's..through Doug herbert Racing, compared to the $75 for pertronix and then you buy a coil, the HEI has the coil on top, and cleans up the engine bay, and never worry about points again either...The one i got was from proform, and was about $138 i think, but it was an upgrade from the base model. You will probably have to do something different with an aircleaner though... here one shot of mine, with the polished shaft.

 

some people like HEI, id go back to points first

 

Or you can have the best of both worlds and put the HEI 4 pin module out of site and still run that nice looking Dura-Spark distributor instead of that huge ugly GM styled thing. lol
clint

 

Here's a bad collection . Two died outright in the Mustang. One slowly went out in the Maverick. It would stall while flying down the road,I'd wait a little while it would fire back up. Then it died permantely. So far so good with #4 .

 

Hmmm... could #HEAT# be an issue?

That's interesting... I've never seen a whole COLLECTION of burnt ignitions. At FOUR ignitors did you ever call Pertronix for warranty or tech support for potential diagnosis?

Some people have Duraspark's burn out, some people have Pertronix burn out, and I have numerous sets of points that seemed to burn out after several weeks. My own problem seemed to be high temp and chronic misfire (I'm guessing the condenser couldn't take the heat). Cold air duct to the carb and a 180 thermostat helped my car so I stuck in a Pertronix and mine runs great so far this week.

Leaving the ignition on in any car will heat up the coil - my understanding is that OEM coils can take quite a bit of heat but don't generate really HIGH voltage and will still last a long time. Many, many a time we left the ignition on - long enough to kill the battery yet the OEM coil was usually ok.

I've read that almost all aftermarket high powered coils can get even hotter (for that 20-40% increase in voltage) and will fry if you leave the ignition on period. I think they *all* tell you not to leave the ignition on without it running.

If you had a 'slowly degrading' ignition could there have been a heat problem or a coil problem? Most people test a coil when it's cold (I usually do), but some misfires, 'cut-outs' and maybe even your stalling could have been the coil. Higher temp, increased resistance, more load for high tension leads to plugs, etc. Erratic voltage supply could be frying the ignitions?

I'm curious because I'm planning on getting one for the V-8 and want them both to last. At the moment (SUMMER) I'd rather spend money burning gas (CRUISING) rather than burning parts...

... and better getting stung by WASPS rather than getting stung by my IGNITION.