i have a holley list number 80145. and my car is running very rich, smell it on your clothes burning you eyes rich. its a 351w, edelbrock performer rpm cam. timing set to 30 degrees, idle screws are 1.5 turns what else can i do?
well for starters the holleys are WAY different on the idle screws. when i had one on my car i had them set to only one half a turn open. however for as rich as you are seeing it sounds like something is stuck open. check the bowls are seating right and adjusted, if vacuum secondaries make sure the secondaries are closing. others may have more suggestions.... there are many things to check on a holley.
Holley carbs and me don't get along. Why is timing at 30 degrees? Is tha total advance? Tighted idle screws to bout half a turn out or so. Make sure you see no fuel dripping when you look in the carb with the engine running. Hook up vacuum gauge and adjust mixture screws till u get best vacuum. MAKE SURE your floats are adjusted correctly with vehicle running. Take out the two fuel bowl sight screws. Fuel should not come out. If it does adjust the screw on top of the bowl by tightening it a bit until fuel stops flowing out.
If you have 30 timing at an idle you are using WAY too much - what you are smelling and bringing tears to your eyes is nitrous oxides - Preignition and detonation on the way! Back you timing off to 10 - 12 degrees BTDC and then tune it.
reset the timing to 25 total timing. i tried to set initial but i cant figure it out. i guess my carb is plugged, when you screw one mixture screw in al the way it idles faster, i was told it was suppose to die
No, when you screw both screws in all the way it should die - unless it has the reverse idle screws then it just gets rich.
nope i got the normal screws the carb is a holley 600cfm 80145, any help would be great for tuning this its a double pumper with vacuum secondaries and a vacuum secondary metering block.
how far are the idle screws open now? when everything is adjusted correctly it will take about a half turn open on each to put it in range if you close BOTH idle screws at once did it still idle? if so the vac secondary is not closing enough you need a stronger spring in the vac diaphragm. did you make sure the bowls are adjusted and not overfilling? this will cause it to flood as stated by others, the power valve can be bad if you backfired. my holley had a bad metering body and was the old style that filled the second bowl through a tube that tube would leak. otherwise it was a good carb even being the older cheaper model. just have to fine tune a lot more settings.
if both screws are are in the engine dies, i was told and read that the normal is 1.5 turns on the mixture screws on the metering block, the bowls are level cleaned and have brass floats, if you screw ether one in it idles a little bit higher but both it dies, choke is open, i put a weaker secondary spring in, you can floor the engine and it will shake a lot and wont rev up, it was running nicely then it changed one night no idea why, i have filled the tank 2 times since then also so the gas is not the reason.
