Here's a picture of my throttle/kickdown linkage on my edelbrock 1405 manual choke carb. none of it seems right, it works fine. but it's seems a bit sketchy the way the kickdown kind of climbs over the throttle. does anyone have pics of their edel. set up?? need to see. ALSO.. are the secondaries vacumn engauged?
edelbrock has mechanical secondaries cant u just take it loose and move it to the other side of the throttle cable bracket
I believe your Kickdown lever should be attached to one of the two holes on the throttle lever extension.(outboard of the throttle cable)not above it...
edelbrocks are vacume secondarys. the bottom blades open mechanicaly but the top butterflys open when enough vaccume is avaiable to pull them open.
I can't help with the linkage issue but I would have a big concern about having the throttle return spring bracket held in position by only 1 bolt/nut. If the nut loosens the bracket would spin, relieving the spring tension. On mine, the spring around the cable end is not strong enough to return the throttle to idle.
That spring on the throttle cable should be all that is needed for the throttle. That spring he has in front looks like it's for the kick down, it shouldn't require too much pull strength. I could be mistaken about the front spring tho...
These carbs are great for someone who wants to bolt a carb on and go. They are what I call plug and play carbs. As for performance I have never liked them. The secondary system although advertised as mechanical has top throttle plates that are based on draw, or air demand. I have seen many guys think they are at full throttle but the truth is that the primarys are still doing 80% of the work. The secondarys can be adjusted for this by their counter weights. You can drill out weight to make them lighter. If you need heavier ones then you have to replace them with a different part number. Its kind of a pain and their isnt much information on these procedures. For what its worth in almost all cases you can pick up quicker times and more power by switching to a holly. With that being said they still make for a great daily driver street carb.
For the kick-down it may be but it still exerts force on the throttle plate shaft's lever. My in-line spring is not strong enough to do the job itself so I had to add a spring to get the carb back to the idle position. Regardless, a single pivot point for a spring anchor looks very questionable to me.
I understand. I have had some carbs that needed that little extra. That single pivot point SHOULD have a keeper dowl or pin of some sort. If not then yea, may give at some point. The pressure on it only comes on after a cretain amount of throttle.
Exactly. BTW, my car is a 1933 REO Roadster with a 302 and C4. It's a pretty tight fit so the throttle cable routing might be such that it makes the bends a bit tighter than they should be. If so, it's probably causing a slight binding.
blugene...how did you attach the throttle cable to the gas pedal? it may sound like a dumb question but i don't understand the piece that it came with.. do i need a new pedal? thanks
Does your pedal have a pin with cotter key that goes through it, or does it take the round plastic piece that snaps in place? And what end does your throttle cable have on it?
