OK so here is the diagram I'm going off of: http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/pXjoS_CIliIRrjBkx24Qaw?feat=directlink Here is what I am going to purchase: http://shop.oreillyauto.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=HAD&MfrPartNumber=3647&PartType=600&PTSet=A http://shop.oreillyauto.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=BOR&MfrPartNumber=R3177&PartType=&PTSet= I wanted to make sure that this diagram would be a good one to follow. Will the fan run on after I turn off the car? Where do I get the 14 AWG fuse from? What's the diode for?
That relay is way over priced. What amp does it carry? You can buy the relay and harness for $6 http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PCO%2D5591PT&N=700+4294845465+115&autoview=sku
hey Jeff, from what I was reading I think I may need a relay a little more than 40. I think 75 was recommended by a few people.
that one is for the...high side...of the fan. i also used a...breaker...for the...fuse...on the high side... i had blown 2...60 amp fuses... Frank...:Handshake NOTE: at no time should the HIGH/LOW sides run at the same time....
I'm not too good with the lingo, so what do you mean by the high side. Also, where do I get the breaker from?
the fan has (2) speeds...high and low... a 30 amp can do the...low a 75 amp for the...high i got my...breaker ...at...Advance Auto Parts... ...:Handshake...
If you had a simple thermistor that pulled ground at the proper temp(like an idiot light switch but lower temp) you could simplify all of that wiring. batt power thru fuse to both terms 30 & 85. 87 to fan. 86 to Thermistor. would run until temp got below thermistor temp. you could add a switch for manual shut off. or splice in a switch for manual turn on. The only problem is finding the right thermistor. The diode is for when the fan turns off. Spinning magnetic metal in a magnetic field creates alternating current. DC systems don't tend to like AC. Diodes only let voltage run one way so, AC power get sent to ground.
Check this thread out for wireing diagrams http://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?p=510622&highlight=mark+VIII#post510622
Have you thought about the total capacity of your car's electrical system? These fan assemblies are from cars with large alternators and higher capacity batteries. {Starting currents} as high as 140 amps with the Lincoln fan is getting close to 2000 watts of power. Doing this mod has some engineering to be done for success or fuse blowing, wire burning, relay contact issues may become a problem.. For Taurus fans, there are two models. I have the service discs for those cars that show all this info.. Both have complete high current controllers used in those cars. It would be best to adapt the use if one of these controllers unless you know how to figure the circuits yourself. Ths simplest way is to buy an adjustable temperature controller from Advanced Auto at about $20 and use it to control your relay to the fan. It will run the fan after shutdown about 5 to 8 minutes on average unless you use a switch in series with the temp controller and no shutoff switch so it works automatic. Never comes on unless the temp reaches 185° which only happens towing or in very hot summer temps. The temp spread on to off is usually about 10°. I use this setup to control a fan cooling my trans fluid cooler for heavey towing at low road speeds with the sensor sampleing the output cooling line from the transmision. The benifit of that is it cools the engine bay faster as well after motor shutdown but you will need to make sure your battery is higher capacity and install an alternator to supply the running current especially at night with the lights on. The stock Mav alternator is about 65 amp with a smallish battery. Modern alternators and the TAURUS alternators are usually 100 +/- amp. Good luck.
thanks, great advice. I am gonna test the system after I have it installed to make sure I don't exceed the alt. If I do I'll do the alt upgrade.
