cleaning the inside of motor

Discussion in 'Technical' started by lika, Mar 4, 2009.

  1. cdeal28078

    cdeal28078 Member

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    Last several engines I have pulled I have removed the hood and pulled the engine/tranny together. That is on a couple of 90's F150's. A Mid 80's Bronco and one Fox body Mustang. It is the only way I'll pull one from now on. I have a bad back and working on the floor does not help it. I got to where I can pull an engine tranny combo on a typical fuel injected truck in about 8 hours. That is me by myself with 3 busted discs in my lower back. lol So you know I am not moving real fast.
    I had a machinist that would supply the engine rebuild kit, do the machine work, hang the pistons on the rods plus press in the new cam bearings all for $750 on a 5.0. I would then put the rest together. Worked out pretty good. This was not for a high performance engine but just a simple cheap as you can go rebuild.
    Look around for an older machine shop that has all of his stuff paid for. Might save you some money.
    clint
     
  2. lika

    lika Señor Comet

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    thanks for sharing experience

    thanks for sharing experience ​

    That helps me to do the right thing
    I think I'm going to buy hoist​


    Why the transmission?​


    because I want to check and clean it, paint it​




    removing the engine and transmission, everything will be better to do a good job, This is what I think.



    the engine! I think I can check and do a tune up, but the transmission i can took to the shop​

    :yup:


    what you think​
     
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2009
  3. rthomas771

    rthomas771 Member

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    This is the way I always pulled engines except for one time. We swapped an engine in my buddy's truck and he wanted to leave the trans in place. It took 3 hours to get the engine aligned with the converter. If we had everthing out on the floor we could see what we were doing a lot better
     
  4. Bryant

    Bryant forgot more than learned

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    if you feel that your transmission is not working properly then its worth pulling and having it rebuilt. youve already said that the motor runs just fine. so in my opinion, you should save your money and put it into any repairs the car does need and if it doesnt need any then put into modifications that you want done to the car. i understand why people want to just know that every thing is good with there car but just taking it appart and puting it back togther when you find all is well is just a waste of money in my opinion. i know you already have the intake off but thats not much work to put back on. i would put it back togther and drive the car to a reptuable tranmission shop and tell them that you dont know the condition of the transmission, and could they test drive it and check the fluid condition.
     
  5. markso125

    markso125 Member

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    We have different opinions going on I guess do what you feel the most comfortable with. The majority vote is to tear it all out and do everything and take all of the guesswork out of it. But there are some that disagree, just remember it is your car and you should do what you feel the most comfortable with.
    If you have the engine out you can strip the cam the lifters the heads off, the crank and the rods out and take it down to a reputable machine shop and they will boil it out for $35-$50 bucks. Then you can have them look at the condition of the cylinder walls too, if the motor does not have too many hard miles on it you can get a cross hatch put on for not too much, and you can have camshaft bearings put in, these cost about $20 from autozone and they will put them in for usually a couple of bucks. It is cheaper for me to have the machine shop redo them then it is for me to rent a camshaft bearing tool and try to put them in myself.(the only way you can see the condition of the camshaft bearings is to remove all the internal components out of the motor and to look at them through the bottom of the motor, or to remove them, and then they might as well be replace anyways)
    If you do all this get an engine stand and assemble your motor on that (you can buy one new for about $65(from autozone), it makes it alot easier than trying to do it with the motor sitting on the ground or balanced on two engine mounts(if you remove the transmission).
    If you get the transmission done have the shop put a transgo shift kit in it (the general consensus is they are the most complete and the best)

    But in the same respect if you leave it in and reassemble it then good luck and hopefully the motor lasts a long time, you do need to make sure that everything is cleaned out of all the oil passages and you did not add any foreign conaminants into the motor. You dont want any of that crap getting to the main bearings or cyinder walls or anything and killing your motor. Remember it costs more to tear it apart fix the problem and buy everything again then it does to ensure it is done right the first time.:cry:
     
  6. baddad457

    baddad457 Member

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    Next time, take some old long small block Ford head bolts (the kind with the straight shanks) cut the heads off, chamfer the ends, cut a screw driver slot in the cut end. Screw 4 of these into the block's transmission bellhousing bolt holes (two per side) Now you've got guide studs to align the engine to the transmission. And a one man engine installation.:thumbs2: You can drink all the beer yourself. (after you're done);) I've done three motor installs by myself in the past three years. Piece of cake.
     
  7. lika

    lika Señor Comet

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    awesome

    this is gonna help me!


     
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 3, 2014
  8. PaulS

    PaulS Member extrordiare

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    I have a few concerns but I think it is funnier than it is a serious film.
    1. If you torque the heads down the way he did you will at least warp the heads.
    2. If you don't put the oil pump drive shaft in before the oil pump then it will probably fall into the pan the first time you pull the distributor.
    3. I assemble and disassemble an engine many times as I check clearances. If you don't check clearances you might be ok - but I won't stop checking them.
    4. Always check the torque sequence and tighten to the spec in 5 or 10 pound increments following the torque sequence.
    5. Always adjust your lifters to specs when assembling the engine before they are pumped up (Hydraulic) or before the engine is oiled.
    6. Always pre-oil the engine with an oil pump drive before installing the distributor - just before starting it and then break in the cam the first time it is started.

    As I said - the film is probably not intended to be a tutorial for assembling an engine - so please don't use it as one.
     
  9. lika

    lika Señor Comet

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    thanks! señior paulS

    is the only video I found,
    usually no one created a video on youtube of 302 / v8.

    well is not a good video, right!


    Someday, we'll find a good tutorial Engines.. for maverick and comet! :cry:

    I think you're the expert on this! ​
    I will buy the book to install and uninstall engine.
    if I have problems I hope you can help me
     
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2009
  10. PaulS

    PaulS Member extrordiare

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    There is a number of great books (magazines) that have engine building tutorials.
    Look at H.P.Books or Petersen Publishing.
     

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