what??? yes the engine is all stock from what I know... for the second question: what??? (i'm sorry... i'm learing all of that... ) justin has a 74: it's more between 20ºF above or below 0 here in nebraska
Your problem isn't the carb, it's the ignition system. You've still got the old points and condersor in the distributor. There's your problem. Swap them out for any of the drop in electronic modules (Pertronix, Crane and others all offer these) and 99% of what you think are a carb tuning problems will dissappear.
I bet money on carb icing. Seen it alot and my old 71 F100 still does it once in a while. It happens in above freezing weather to a point as well. Put the stock type air breather and all of the hoses that came off back on and I will bet you it will stop. Tyr this. Next time it starts acting up just shut the engine down in a safe place. Let it sit for 2 or 3 minutes and start it back up. If it runs normally it is probably carb icing. clint
alright guys... so just don't laught at me please... this is my first car with a carb so i figured out: my choke starts to open after 10 to 15 minutes... should i change it? or do you think it's a shortcut somewhere? i mean... it cost only 15 bucks to change it... so i should probably start with that and then see what happen. so the choke is suppose to open at cold... is it supposed to close when it's hot? thanks you guys!
so i went to advance auto parts, and before to buy the choke i asked them if i could borrow their volt tester... i only get 8V to my choke where should i plug the choke? on the alternator? and if yes, where on the alternator and what kind of wire do i want? thanks guys!
You want power to the choke only when the car is running. Not key on power. Engine run power. Did you check the hose from the heat stove yet like the guys mentioned.??? Its a pipe from the exhaust manifold to the breather snorkel. The flapper in the snorkel should be closed when cold (the old cars were manual winter/summer position) directing warm air from the heatstove to the carb. It will freeze the carb blocking off the ports when its damp and hovering around the freezing point.
that's why i'm asking where i should plug it on the alternator... there are several plugs... plus i need to know what kind of wire i need... (amp and Volt resistance) not yet... i wanna take care of my choke issue before the rest... one problem at a time...
ok... so i get 12V now... and i can see my choke opening... got few deys above 50 degres lately... problem is still there... seems like the problem disapear when i turn the choke waaaaaaaaaaay passed the 3rd point on the lean side i started to think it's my iddle mixture that is not good... so i checked... my needles were 5 turns out!:16suspect so i screwed them in and unscrewed them 2turn and a half out.... but i think i'm to lean now: if i give a lot of gaz for just a second to let say 3000rpm, the car keep it there for half a second when i release the gaz and then go back slowly to 1000rpm. starts to drive me a little crazy
On my electric choke Holley's I usually have to set them WAY lean to keep the choke from coming back on after parking it hot for 30 minutes or less. For instance if I drive up to the store and get the truck good and warm, go in for 30 minutes and come back out and the choke would come back on unless I set it way lean. clint
thanks.. at least it's reassuring.... i talk to a garage guy... he's gonna set everything properly for me and give me a little "carburetor 101" lesson after it.
