I just need the carb and I'm ready to upgrade my 302. I wanted to ask everyone what the process is for the swap. I have a stock 302 but it was recently put together so I don't think I'll be needing a crowbar. I have an Edelbrock Vict Jr intake, AFR aluminum heads and getting the 1406 edelbrock carb. Will I have to adjust the timing after this?
Drain the radiator best you can. Take off the carb, intake, then heads. You will still get water into the cylinders, so try to catch it or wipe it up ASAP and maybe wipe up or saturate with oil while you mess with the rest. If i were you, and you are going this far into it, I would look into a cam swap. you would have to do all of this anyway for a new cam, so spend another hundred or two and do it now. ALSO, if you are swapping heads, you will need to make sure the springs on the valves are matched to your cam/lifter and head setup. So again, a cam swap and new springs might be a good investment at this point. As for the timing, mark where the distributor is pointing and if you are lucky enough to get it all back together without moving the crank, just drop the dizzy back in where it was pointed. Doesn't always work out that way, and you may need to find TDC when you are done and drop it in that way. Once it is running hit it with the timing light to get it right on. Make sure you keep junk out of all the passageways and cylinders while you are working, and keep it all clean. This is going to be FUN!!!
Things you will need: Exhaust manifold/header gaskets Intake gaskets Head gaskets Carb base gasket Thermostat housing gasket valve cover gaskets One tube of RTV silicone sealant One gallon of coolant/One gallon of distilled water(cuts down on electrolysis caused corrosion) One oil filter 5 qts of your favorite brand of engine oil recommended Items: New head bolts to accomodate your new heads New rockers...I dont think your stockers will work with the AFR's Possibly push rods as well If you go the cam route: Timing chain gasket kit good double roller T-chain Cam kit of your choice?with appropriate valve springs for cam application. good assembly lube/if you go roller cam you only need oil If you go roller cam you will need the appropriate steel gear for the distributor I am sure I missed something...someone will fill in the blanks.Good luck!!! PS:Get a good book on small block ford rebuilding or a chiltons manual for Mavs/Comets It will have needed torque specs and assembly/adjustment proceedures...have fun!!!!
Question for the resident experts. Did Ford actually use exhaust manifold gaskets from the factory in the 1970's? Not sure if or when they started that practice. They did not use any gaskets between cylinder heads and cast iron exhaust manifolds in the 1960's, up into the early 1970's that I know. A reliable oldtimer told me once that Ford did not use them, and that not using them, aided in the engine cooling. The exhaust manifolds acted like a heat sink, absorbing heat and transferring it down and out the exhaust system.
No they did not.I will tell you what they did do...ready??? Molybdenim disulfide...Moly grease.Put a generous amount on the manifold mating surface...install...run engine...it cokes up sealing the manifold to the head.Yes it works..i have done it Many many times.Surfaces MUST be clean/true for it to work. No it wont work for headers...steel/cast iron expand at different rates.If you are doing a concourse restoration its the only way to not lose points...
Never seen a factory exhaust manifold come off that had a trace of any sealing substance myself. The manifolds and head surfaces were machined flat, so there was no need for a sealer. That said, I don't ever recall anyone using an Edelbrock carb with a Vic Jr intake.
wich afr heads are you useing? im thinking that vic jr. intake is going to be to much intake for you. its a top end power band manifold. that means below 3000 rpm the motor is not going to have any real power. also that intake is tall. it doesnt leave room for a air cleaner under the stock hood. id really recomend geting a edel. performer rpm intake or weiand stealth intake. these will give you a good power band. i cant find any info indicateing that the carb your indicateing will work with the ford kick down lever. i couldnt even find any edelbrock carbs that said that they would.
If you are doing all that work and investing all that time and money, you may as well invest another 250 bucks and give it a new bumpstick. Its the only way to really take advantage of the mods your doing.
Oh ya. Don't worry about the victor jr. intake. It works just fine. I ran one on my 306 with no complaints at all. And I also tried a rpm airgap and an old weiand 8011 dual plane. They all worked good. The only place you notice a difference is at the track and it's so minor it just don't matter. The victor jr. was the fastest though.
Sean, were you able to fit a air cleaner on the vic jr. with the stock hood? i helped a guy put one on his mav, and the hood was less that a inch from the top of the carb.
Nope. Wouldn't fit. I guess I have an advantage as I am running a comet gt so I just cut a very clean hole in the hood and let the air cleaner sit in the hood scoop. I never thought about the maverick hood not having the scoop. Brainfart!!!!
i belive there is only one vic jr for the 302 motor. so that would be the one that is too tall. the best ones for performace that fits under a stock hood its the ede. performer rpm or the wieand stealth intakes. the torquer also fits i belive but personaly i feel the other two intakes give you a broader power band than the torquer would. the other way to go would be to get more hood clearance by geting a cowel hood or puting some sort of hood scoop on it.
the height of the victor junior 2921 is 5.5" but I couldn't find the height of the other ones. But I read it doesn't fit under our hoods.
