recently i got my new weiand manifold and holley carb, and a few of my friends told me that im going to have to install an electric fuel pump to get the car to run well is this true, and how difficult is it to install
A lot of people still use a mechanical pump. That should work fine for a street car. Even occasional strip. If it was a strictly drag car, I would go with the elctric pump and regulator so you can adjust it to your needs.
Holley and edelbrock make high volume manual pumps. But if your car is mildly worked it wont need anything other than stock.
Whaaa!!! I NEVER ASSOCIATE WITH RICERS !!!!! Ill only ask a ricer for advice if I need to put aType-R sticker on my car or I need a GIANT spoiler. which will not happen any time soon (Type-R stickers add 15 hp per sticker) lol
Electric pumps are much over rated in my opinion, Unless you run a bypass regulator the electric pump is ALWAYS under a load. So why run something that is constantly wearing itself out, Not to mention taxing the electrical system. A mechanical pump supplies fuel WITH engine rpm. A stock pump can probably handle more volume than the stock 3/8 line can supply.
This is only true if you use a pump that's too big. The 30 gal/hr pump on my V8 Ranger is 8 years old now and doin' fine. Got the same pump feeding the 331 in my Comet too.
To big or small when the needle in the carb shuts the fuel off the pump goes into a bind, This wears the pump no matter what you do, unless you kill the power to the pump the pump will still be running. The only way to run a electric pump is to either BYPASS the fuel or cut the power. NO other way. I know some will say that some pumps have a built in bypass but you still have to maintain the pressure that it takes to bypass which means the pump is in a bind. While to some extent what you say is true the smaller pumps will draw less current than a larger one, But it is still in a bind if it is dead headed.
Not all electrics operate that way. The one's I have don't shut down as the pressure is reached, but after running the one in the Ranger for 8 years, wear definately isn't an issue.And it has no return line, but I do have a Holley regulator downstream from it. The stock intank Ford pumps shut off when the pressure is reached.
Im going to try to explain this as simple as i can, Either a electric pump is dead headed, Bypassed or has a FPDM (Fuel pump driver module). What im saying pertains to a DEAD HEADED pump which is what most people run. When the pump flow of fuel from the pump is stopped Pressure builds inside the pump, Every pump has some sort of bypass built in, Whether it be a built in orifice, One way valve, Or veins that give, The pump still has to run. This in turn heats the fuel that is in the pump, Draws extra current, And in general puts a strain on the pump. The pump may or may not last 8 years and ? many miles? But it will put a extra load on the electrical system. Don'T believe that? Here is a simple test, Hook a AMP gauge between the pump and power source, Run the carb out of fuel by disabling the pump. Now turn the pump on and monitor the gauge and watch what happens when the carb fills with fuel and the needle shuts off the fuel. Notice now the pump is requiring more amps to keep it going. Amps is a measurement of the load that is being applied. This in turn is creating more heat in the pump motor which in turn means more wear. I'm not saying NOT to run a electric pump, But to run one rite you need to run a bypass or a driver. Sure there have been more pumps hooked up deadheaded than not. But Why? Why not just run a mechanical pump that doesn't heat the fuel or over burden the electrical system. And ALL FORD pumps don't shut off, Pre 2000 models have a bypass where the newer models have a Fuel Pump Driver Module.
The pumps I use shut off when they reach 6 psi. They must have some kind of switch/sensor that shuts the power off internally.
