Ok gang, maybe someone can help. Working on my rear brakes on my 74 still stock drums.....going to replace all cylinders and master......as usual on my particular Maverick simple jobs always turn into a challenge. I've removed the wheel, backed off the pads with the "star wheel adjuster" looking at the plate from behind, rolled it downward to loosen as the manual says. The drum will move left to right fairly easily as far as the diff will let it...but this darn drum won't budge. I have tapped on the front fairly firm with a hammer thinking since the rubber plug was missing from the backplate that maybe rust was bonding the drum to the lug plate....some rust seemed to fall but could be from outside too.... So it won't even slightly loosen..................Could there be anything else damaged that would be holding it on, or am I more likely dealing with a severely rusted drum inside? I have worked on many old drum systems but never had a problem getting them off like this.....has anyone else encountered this? I'm stumped and don't want to damage the drum by beating the hell out of it.........but what else to do?
Chances are its hung on the axle flange, The round part just below the lugs. Spray penetrating fluid around the flange and lug bolts and just keep tapping around these areas with a hammer, A ball pein works the best for me. If this fails i have drilled small holes 1/8 or smaller around the flange between the axle and lugs and shot penetrating fluid in these holes, Just don't drill Thur the axle, The drum is pretty thin in this area. A little heat in this area also helps sometime, Just be sure the fluid you used is not flammable if you have sprayed it first.
I've used a prybar to lever against what ever I could pry against and I did have to beat the hell out of it but they will come off. ThAT was on a nissan p/u but it's ths same thing. GL
This is a stupid question, but I mention it because I've made this mistake myself... Is the parking brake on?
thanks everyone... Hehe...it would be like me to leave the park brake on but not this time.... It is soaking in the penetrating fluid now so let's see how it goes... I really think it's rusted bad. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't forgetting a step or something. I guess I forgot the automotive mantra "Beat it to fit, paint it to match" My neighbors will be glad when I finish this car, I'm sure.....I actually got a warning from the HOA in our neighborhood for getting paint overspray on the grass.....It's better than ruining the driveway....!
ive seen where the center hole on the drum is just smaller than the register on the axle. the hole is tapered outward so it can be pushed on but it then works like a wedge and keeps it from coming off. i use heat from a torch to get those off. just heat up the flange on the drum right around the hole and you will hear it pop when it releases. rember its now really hot so use thick welding gloves or a lot of rags to grab it off quickly.
If the E brake isnt engaged and the shoes are backed off...and it will slide on the hub but not come off.... There is a ridge of rust inside the drum at the rear most edge of the friction surface where the shoes dont ride... this is whats hanging you up.Only method is to pry it off or do what I do: Use a slide hammer with a claw that grabs the back edge of the drum and hammer away.Work around the drum...top to bottom...side to side till it comes loose and falls off on your foot.NOTE... this method may(will)ruin hold down springs/cups and brake nails,but since your doing it all up anywhoo get new hardware as well.Good luck
Try hitting the face of the drum between the studs with the round side of a ballpeen hammer. You want it to strike midway between the studs, not near them. Keep at the same spots while working at pulling the drum side to side. It'll eventually come off.
