Correct me if I'm wrong but there doesn't seem to be an adjustment for dwell on my 200c.i. six (1972 car). I thought height of the cam to open the points is the gap (how high they open) and the ANGLE of the points to the cam affects duration or dwell (how LONG they stay open). The points sit on a pivot pin and only seem to adjust one way. I set the gap to .027" as best I could then set the timing to 8 degrees (seems to work best on my car... 12 degrees burnt the contacts in my last distributor cap). The car fires right away, idles very smooth, and after a run on the highway there was no popping on deceleration so I'm inclined to leave it alone. There's a Dwell function on my meter but (GM got it right this time with their trap door on the side of the dist. cap) no way to adjust dwell. I'm just worried about burning the points if it's wrong. Anybody tinkered with the points on a six? Tanks Whisky
You adjust the dwell by adjusting the gap. A smaller gap is more dwell and a bigger gap is less dwell. The V8s like about 28 degrees of dwell but the sixes like (need) more. Dwell is more important and a more accurate way to set your points. If they burn it is because the voltage is too high or the condensor isn't right. (they are a high tollerance device so they vary from one to the next. When you have one that works well you keep it.)
There is 360 degrees in a circle. Dwell measures the amount of degrees that the points are closed. Since a 6 cylinder will only close 6 times in one rotation compared to 8 times for a v8, the measurement will be higher. Like Paul said, it is way more accurate than feeler gauges.
Thanks Paul!... that's why I haven't done them till now. Car has run pretty good.... but I noticed the wear on the plastic so I swapped em and keep the old ones for a backup. So if I set the gap initially with a guage to start the car and adjust timing, then I use a dwell meter and - ignoring the gap - adjust for 37 deg. ?
Usually with new set of points they give you a little pack of grease, make sure you clean and lube the cam before install points. Chilton's is showing .025-.027 gap an 35-37 degree dwell on the 6's. I usually set points with feeler gauge than after I start up would use the dwell meter.
Remove the coil wire from the cap and ground this end of wire, Remove the distributor cap, Hook dwell meter as you normally would, slightly loosen screw(s) that hold point(s), you need the points tight enough that they wont move on their own but loose enough that you can move with screw driver in their wedge slot. Next either get someone to turn the motor over or get a hand starter, Either way be sure to turn ignition ON. While motor is spinning you can adjust dwell. A little practice and you can get them on the money everytime. This method will also let you check and know if your points plate has any slop. Also remember Don't stay on the starter for long periods of time, As this could cause overheating of components. I will disagree respectively on the General getting anything rite, Ever tried working on a General with a Blower. Dist access is very limited. I didn't give all the safety warnings like the government makes most do. But I'm sure you know to set the brake, Scotch the tires, Be sure its in neutral or park, Wear safety glasses, Have a fire extinguisher handy, Have 911 on speed dial just in case. ECT. Well you get the picture.
Get a Pertronix ignition system that replaces the points and never worry about it again. Fits inside the cap ... looks stock. It really helped the driveability of my 351W with a lumpy cam and no choke on the carb. I could actually start it in 1/3rd the # of attempts when it was cold.
