stroker engine: is it worth to do it yourself?

Discussion in 'General Maverick/Comet' started by noun, Dec 1, 2008.

  1. GrabberGT

    GrabberGT Chris

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    Not easy but doable. The hard part for me was torqing the heads. Space and reach makes it difficult if not impossible to apply proper torque accurately.
     
  2. MNTony

    MNTony aka Godzirra

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    I think that your math and assumptions are correct based on my experience. The only reason that I assemble my own is that I enjoy it and I have an obsessive personality (I have to know that everything is built with my attention to detail).

    As for your other question, yes you could most certainly put the top end kit on the existing motor. I think that you will be pleasantly surprised at the results. And unless you have a reason to believe that your existing short block is toast (burning oil, or making disturbing noises, or a future with much N2O or boost) I wouldn't have a problem at all bolting on that kit from Edelbrock. That's what I call fun! I don't care who you are!!!
     
  3. noun

    noun Member

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    well, no sound particulary.
    smoke white when i start the engine and that's about it (hope new heads will solve that).
    engine starts even in the cold within 5 seconds.

    the only problem i got so far is: it seems like my timing is going off (or may be the cold weather is making my engine runing too rich)...:hmmm:
    and yeah, i agree about the fun!:drive:
    that's why that car is my daily driver!


    thanks for all those answers guys!:thumbs2:

    rayzorsharp: lucky you! wish i'll find a deal like that the day i'm gonna look for more power!
     
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2008
  4. justin has a 74

    justin has a 74 Maverick bandit official

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    i herd from someone here that those top end kits dont work as well as they say
     
  5. MNTony

    MNTony aka Godzirra

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    The white or blue smoke is usually oil or coolant. I would think that if it were coolant then you would have other symptoms too (overheating, one really clean spark plug, external head gasket leaks, etc). Usually the first thing to go on these old motors are the valve seals, guides and seats (the rubber dries out on the seals and the unleaded fuel eats up the seats). All are normally head issues. Add that to the fact that it clears up after its started just supports the thought that it's the heads. If you wanted to check just to be sure you could do a compression or leakdown test then squirt some oil into the cylinders and do the test again. If the compression doesn't go up a large amount it's valve issues. If it does, then you are looking at rings. But I doubt it from your description.

    I've not heard any issues with the Edelbrock systems and I know a Chevy guy that swears by them. My buddy had several stock heads flowed side by side and the Edelbrocks were the only ones that actually met their advertised flow rates. But I don't have a dog in that fight...I run AFR's myself and I've seen all different kinds of head packages run great. I can tell you that Edelbrock has been in business forever and they back their product up if you have an issue from my experiences.

    Good luck and have fun!
     
  6. Bryant

    Bryant forgot more than learned

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    ive seen those head packages work really well. i cant say that the made the power that was advertised because the cars ive seen them on were never dynoed. the seat of the pants and dragstrip times showed that it was worth it.
     
  7. stockhatch

    stockhatch Re Member

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    I would at least buy a shortblock that was assembled by a reputable shop using good parts and machining equipment. Clearances and machine work need to be dead on for a reliable engine. You can bolt on the heads, cam, valvetrain, intake etc if you take your time and pay attention to what you are doing. Read, this it is so true!
     

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