stroker engine: is it worth to do it yourself?

I did a little of math today...
not that I plan to do it soon, but that's probably what i'm gonna do the day my engine is gonna blow off.

Cleaning the bloc: $500
Stroker kit: $700
Edelbrock Performer RPM kit: $1700
Edelbrock Performer Carb 600 CFM: $300
Distributor: $250
Wires: $70
Pan: $150
Water pump: $100
Oil pump: $50
Fuel pump: $80
Gaskets kit: $60
Head cover: $150
Rocker arms: $150

Total: $4260

Plus all Misc. and the time to spend and the possibility of doing mistakes since i'm doing it myself and that it will be my first rebuild.

Blueprint engines for exemple sells 347 dressed for $5095 here

so my question is:
are the $800 worth the headhach?
not including the fact that my bloc is a flat tapped cam and that the blueprint engine is a roller.

what do you guys think?

 

I'm interested in hearing too.

 

"Gaskets kit: $60"
i paid more than that for my...head gaskets...

 

Big difference in heads iron gt40p's probably (pia) vs the edelbrocks. Why not purchase a shortblock and then use the edelbrock top end kit?

 

Building a stroker motor and getting all the correct parts can be a real pia but buying a crate motor can be also, just cause Summit sells it doesnt make it great (sorry Frank) If I was to buy a crate motor or have one built I would look for a local machine shop that is reputable and have them build one for me so you have someone to fall back on.

I have been pondering the same question for quite some time and have been watching ebay for stroker kits and short blocks and long blocks and if you go cheap thats what you end up with, it just gets down to the fact that if you want to play you got to pay.

 

If your gonna go crate motor, go with a ford racing one. WARRANTED

 

$700 is cheap for a good stroker kit. What is a head cove for $150. Do you mean valve covers? Cleaning the block-$500. I hope that includes all machine work, boring the cylinders and clearancing the cylinders where the rod would hit. Do the rings and bearings come with the kit? How about push rods.

 

I think that I would kick in a bit more for the engine machining. $500 would get it cleaned and magged, but you would also have to think about having it clearanced for the stroker, cam bearings installed, bored, have the line bore checked (possibly bored or honed), and if you want to do it correctly, have the decks squared. Depending on what you have for balancing you may have to purchase a flywheel and damper to match the balance of the crank. And if the kit isn't pre-balanced you will have to have it done by a shop. I don't want to hand out the doggy downers here, but I want you to understand what hidden costs may be out there. For me it comes down to how you really want to use this motor. For me, if I was serious about racing, I'd build it myself to make sure that I had everything done to it that I require and built to my specs (or have an engine builder do it for you). But if it's just a street car it's the crate motor hands down. Your choice, but you're doing the right thing. Research will always pay off for you! Good luck and keep us updated!

 

its the unseen expenses that get you. I would suggest adding atleast another grand (minimum) to that total.

When I did mine, I researched and found a local guy (60 miles away) and had him figure a price....got it in writing and even after that, I added around another $500 to the build.

 

Try competition products they have a few crate engines that have decent prices.

 

I got kinda lucky when I got my 347. A board member listed it for sale with about 2000 miles (or less) on it, complete with Holley 750 Proform down to the oil pan and MSD Billet dizzy, MSD wires. Came with TrickFlow heads & valve covers, alternator and serpentine belt setup already. Got it all for $3000!!! So far I've ran a 6.97 1/8th mile in my car with a toploader/4.30 gears. Very happy with my engine!
Thanks again Boss9

 

Don't put a 600 edelbrock on that motor. you will not be happy.
Use a holley or one of the clones (quickfuel, BG, etc...) and consider a bit bigger although for primarily street 600 or 650 will be nice and snappy. I run a 650 on mine and it's plenty grouchy but smaller displacement.

 

as I said...
it's not something that I'm planing soon...
I'm just thinking about the day my engine is gonna die.
(and you never know when it's gonna happen... so you better be prepared i think)

but may be I got a little too excited about a 331 or a 347.
it's my daily driver, and I just want to add more pep to it.

at the end I'm probably gonna go with just an edelbrock performer top end kit and see what happen.
But still... it would be nice to do every thing in once.

I was just thinking about the price when I was going through the summit racing catalogue.

But mostly... it looks like you guys think:
_ racing: do it yourself or at worst pay a lot for somebody that you're sure about
_ street: you can go with an engine like the one that summit sells since you're not gonna kick the @##%#%$ out of it.

did I got it right?

 

most engine builders charge a...build-labor price...plus parts and machine work. mine have always been...$350-$500...intake to pan.
flat tappet/roller...
as John said..."its the unseen expenses that get you. I would suggest adding atleast another grand (minimum) to that total."



...frank...

 

so the math would be:

doing it myself: $4260 + $1000 (unseen expenses) = $5260
engine from summit: $5095

so there is really no point of doing it myself? (except the fact to know what's exactly in it and the satisfaction of running an engine you build yourself?)

the other question would be: is it possible to put an edelbrock top end kit without droping out the engine?