Mike, you can test them using a multimeter it's easy to do it: switch the meter to volts now take the black wire (ground) from the meter and ground it to a good ground source on the car than take the red wire and connect it to the black wire coming from the 02 sensor that's the signal wire... the other two whites are the heater wires one is ground the other is hot + and they should have 12volts on them with engine running. to see the 02 readings You should run the engine above 2000 rpm for two minutes to warm the O2 sensor and try to get into closed loop. Closed loop operation is indicated by the sensor showing several cross counts per second. It may help to rev the engine between idle and about 3000 rpm several times. The computer recognizes the sensor as hot and active once there are several cross counts. You are looking for voltage to go above and below 0.45 volts. If you see less than 0.2 and more than 0.7 volts and the value changes rapidly, you are through, your sensor is good. If not, is it steady high (> 0.45) near 0.45 or steady low (< 0.45). If the voltage is near the middle, you may not be hot yet. Run the engine above 2000 rpm again. If the reading is steady low, add richness by partially adding some propane through the air intake. Be very careful if you work with any extra gasoline, you can easily be burned or have an explosion. If the voltage now rises above 0.7 to 0.9, and you can change it at will by changing the extra fuel, the O2 sensor is usually good. If the voltage is steady high, create a vacuum leak. Try pulling the PCV valve out of it's hose and letting air enter. You can also use the power brake vacuum supply hose. If this drives the voltage to 0.2 to 0.3 or less and you can control it at will by opening and closing the vacuum leak, the sensor is usually good. If you are not able to make a change either way, stop the engine, unhook the sensor wire from the computer harness, and reattach your voltmeter to the sensor output wire. Repeat the rich and lean steps. If you can't get the sensor voltage to change, and you have a good sensor and ground connection, try heating it once more. Repeat the rich and lean steps. If still no voltage or fixed voltage, you have a bad sensor. I got this text from the net but yes it works I always use this way on non OBDII cars
Just got off the phone with summit, bought new ford racing plug wires and new cap and button. Also bought some hyms joint to make shock tower braces. Hopefully my problems will be solved this time.
sorry on the o2 wire thing. i sold my mustang 4 years ago and have been specializeing in differentials for 7 years now. so its been awhile sence ive had my hands on a efi car. i knew for shure that they were not one wire or two wire. i knew that the o2 signal portion of the o2 sensor used two wires, so the heater must ground through the exhast. I hope the wires do it. im not a big fan of the motor sport wires, i had customer that used them because they had the color he liked. they pull apart at the spark plug boot easyer that alot of others ive used. i recomend the accell 300+ race wires. they come with a lifetime warentee and ive used the warentee and had no problems geting them exchanged. a friend of mine when to SAM (school of automotive machinests) and they had dyno tested all the plug wires they could get there hands on and those made the top level of power achived. i really hope these plug wires fixes the miss. keep us updated. oh i was the one asking for pics. they answered some questions for me. one last thing, if the pulg wires dont work try reclocking the mass air meter in to different postions. ive seen this drasticly change how some cars run.
I do wont to thank all you guys again for all your help. And lance for the phone help also. That kinda sucks on the wires i hope mine are ok............
they perform well, make shure to put dieletric grease on each end of the wire. that should help them last and be able to be removed.
The saga continues, new wire cap and rotor still doing it. I swear it like the car is trying to turn itself off for a second. But if its any consalation i can burn the passenger tire off now that the timing has been bumped to 12 degrees. Not sure why im only spinning one wheel either since if got 3.40 with posi.
posi may be wore out... as for the driveability issue, it sure does sound like a bad connection somewhere...
What MM said. I become tired of frying the clutches, so I put in the Power-traxx locker. Solved that problem.
I no this is a reach but i was looking around the intake and it has a rubber bushing that the pcv valve goes in.I can grab the rubber line and pull the bushing valve and all out of the intake easilly. So do you think maybe that if its that lose that it may be sucking air (vacume leak causing the problem). Or am i reaching...........?
spray brake clean or carb cleaner on that hose while the motor is running, if the motor stumbles then it is leaking. a leak could very well be your problem.
No luck on the pcv valve. I do no one thing though when the car starts running funny if i stop and turn it off and start it back up its good to go for another 2 or 3 minutes.
thats puting it back into openloop, un plug the o2 sensors and try driving it like that for a while. that should force it to run in open loop.
