Okay. What you want to accomplish is not the same type modification as putting Camaro seats in a Ford car. There is not any 'this is the only way' method. Find some cars that have done the MII conversion. Take pics and ask questions. There aren't that many here to my knowledge. Try the internet. Early Mustangs, Cougars etc. are what you are looking for. There are companies that sell conversion kits for MII style front ends and coilover setups that MAY fit these cars. Study how they are mounted, it can help you understand how this should all go together. You may even consider buying some of these aftermarket parts as they tend to outperform factory stuff or at least are more universal. Check back on here to see if anyone is offering pics from their conversion-we get new posters all the time and not everyone is here daily. Mock up your setup. I would hack the front clip off of one of your donor car-hopefully one that isn't worth restoring, and test fit your new suspension and motor. I don't know for sure, but I bet there aren't headers that will fit without modification. Tire size? I don't have a clue. I would get the front end and motor addressed first. Deal with traction and stabilizing later. Seth
Robert: Please post pictures here as well. I think all here would love to see and read of the progress. Having said that, I would like to add that I enjoy seeing the progress on your car because you know exactly what you are doing...and HOW to do it. Just sharing the pictures alone has given me great insight into how this all can be done to any car....let alone a Maverick. I woukld never do it....but I think it is great that you are doing it to your car. I like what Thack is doing to his car, and what he has done to Tammy's car. If it was easy...we would all be doing it. So to those of you who want to do this to YOUR car, I would add: It can't be done "cheap". Even with a free car, free parts cars, and an already prepped motor....you are only about 5% of the way there. The other 95% is money, experience, money, tools, money, helpful friends, a little more money, safety and stability considerations, and finally...some more money. For a direct answer......the factory Mustang II suspension is wider than a Maverick front suspension...so it would need to be split in the middle, shortened, and they put together. It takes a fair amount of engineering to figure it all out. I am sure there are lots of books that could help...as well as the talented folks here. Keep posting those pictures....and keep posting those questions. :bananaman :bananaman :bananaman
actually Craig the MII front end hub to hub is the same width......but the frame rails on the mustang\pinto is 4" narrower....if you split and widen the cradle to fit the maverick frame rails then you get this pontiac thing going and I disagree with them......wider is not always better now as for my earlier response......the gentleman asked what he should do to install a big block NOT what would you do......I'm not trying to cause any ill feelings but at the same time 2 years ago when I had asked about the MII setup and what I had in my mind I was gonna do......I was told the same thing go with a small block it's gonna cost to much....so on so forth. now it doesn't always cost that much to change things around as long as you have the time and temper and the know how or have access to someone who has the know how......I am by no means a master fabricator(I learn as I go)I build transmissions for a living.....and I grew up on a farm I learned at a young age that if you have the will to do it only time will slow you down.
actually Craig the MII front end hub to hub is the same width......but the frame rails on the mustang\pinto is 4" narrower....if you split and widen the cradle to fit the maverick frame rails then you get this pontiac thing going and I disagree with them......wider is not always better now as for my earlier response......the gentleman asked what he should do to install a big block NOT what would you do......I'm not trying to cause any ill feelings but at the same time 2 years ago when I had asked about the MII setup and what I had in my mind I was gonna do......I was told the same thing go with a small block it's gonna cost to much....so on so forth. now it doesn't always cost that much to change things around as long as you have the time and temper and the know how or have access to someone who has the know how......I am by no means a master fabricator(I learn as I go)I build transmissions for a living.....and I grew up on a farm I learned at a young age that if you have the will to do it only time will slow you down. And Craig define cheap........I probably have less in my hole car than some do just in thier motors.
I had a Maverick parts car that somebody had put a Mustang II front end on it. The tires stuck out past the fender openings. They must have split it down the middle and made it wider to fit the Maverick frame rails. I never really looked too closely at it...so that shows you what I know. All I knew was that it was "wider" than it should be. Robert....you have a lot of "sweat equity" in your car....the kind of value money can't buy. It's the 95% that others don't have. And by the way....I would consider you a master fabricator. What you have done is amazing. Heck....what I can't weld I fill up with bondo!!
Maddmav I did'nt recieve your email make sure you sent it to irritationacres1@juno.com I would be happy to answer the questions that I can If ya want you are welcome to call me as well. now as to you Dennis.........I would gladly post some pics......as soon as I figure out the software on the new camera our old one took a dump and I'm still figuring the new one out:confused: and please Craig do not call me a master fabricator I'm liable to get a swelled head like that doof tom
big block ok ok i know i'm commin into tha fight late but if yer gona put a big block in a mav you shoul;d do it this way 1. put it on a tube frame 2. get rid of all unecicery items exp... radio seats, and so on 3.fiberglass everything exp... fenders and so on enough with the numbers fiberglass racing buckets roll cage and forget the street heck even through in some noss thats just my opinion... ... ... but my opinion also says a big block is nothin but weight in tha back of the truck for the winter i'm happy with my little 6 cyl and 3 speed trany why do ya need so much power??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ???
No fights going on just informal chatting........and by the way it's NOS........not noss.....just to set the record strait
You guys just about got me to give up...THEN!! I get some new news, and information! Tim Thiels (?) Big Block maverick! I will get more information, and talk to Robert Raney about what route I am going to go. I have also been in touch with a few companys that make the "conversion kit" and am awaiting a reply from them. Time will tell, and Robert, I will be intouch with you later on this week I do believe. Thanks a lot... Jeff Given
You guys are all funny if this was a chevy baord everyone would tell you to put a 454/520. Why do the chevy boys get to have all the big block fun!!!! This post kinda makes me want to do a big block drag queen
I for one am going to someday do a bigblock mav. I was almost ready to do it to my Stallion, but a bit of common sense overcame me. I agree completely with Thomas, and am a firm believer there is no replacement for displacement. BUT with these 347's doing so well, it does make for the easiest way to go for hp improvement. Dan
I would love to see pictures of big block Mavericks. I think most of the very first Pro Stock Mavericks had 427 SOHC engines in them. I have an old October 1970 High Performance Cars magazine article about Al Joniec's P/S Maverick which I think is what the Maverick model kits are patterned after. Pro Stockers looked really stock back in '69-'70.
I have had some interesting experiences running a Big Block in these cars. Back in the late '70's, I had a 72 Comet that we had shoehorned a 390/toploader 4 speed into. Being young and stupid, we didn't do anything special to the body for structural integrity. (No cage or sub frame connectors.) We just cut out the shock towers with a torch, removed the shock tower supports and jury rigged everything. It was ugly, nose heavy as all get out, over powered and under engineered. I ran that thing on the streets for about a year before that fateful night when it all came to an end. It was a typical street race on Topeka Blvd in Topeka, Ks. Lined up against a buddy in his 69 Camaro. Street light turned green. Dropped the clutch. Left front came up of the ground. Left door popped open. Windshield popped out. Roof buckled...... Darn near twisted that poor car in half..... Since then, I have learned a few things. If you are talking serious power (big block or small), there are some things you just have to spend money on. 1. Chassis stiffening. Unit body cars don't like big power without adding extra support. 2. Better brakes. You can't have too much brake on a race car. 3. The best suspension components you can afford. Putting 700 horse down to the ground means that your entire suspension is going to take a tremendous beating. Use tubular A arms on the front. I would very strongly suggest taking a look at Rod and Custom Motorsports Maverick MII crossmember. This will be stronger than the stock Pinto/Mustang II sheetmetal and is already designed to weld directly into a Maverick. For a little further background, I ran a '70 Mustang fastback with a Mustang II front suspension, 429/C6 and a Versaille rear for several years. The stock sheetmetal crossmember started to bend and settle in the first 6 months. We ended up having to weld heavy gauge tubing to the crossmember to fix this problem. The points listed above are again from the school of hard knocks. Please take them into consideration. All that being said, I have been wanting to do a 514/C6 Maverick for years. My approach would be Chassis Engineering 10 point cage. Mustang II front suspension from Rod and Custom. 9" posi with 4 wheel large disc brakes. 4 link suspension and tubs. It would have to have Gear Vendors overdrive for street cruising. It would also have to have a full, relatively quiet exhaust for street manners and full interior. With aluminum heads, intake, etc. the car is still going to be nose heavy so moving the engine back would be a requirement. This would mean a custom firewall/floor and moving the driver seat back a bit as well to preserve room for the feet and legs. Starting to look like a long term project. Maybe next year. (I have the spare car, motor, trans, rear, front suspension. Just no time.)