hello everybody! ok, i'm really new to all of those old engines... i have a 302 with a motorcraft carb on it... since i got the car one day it's good, the other day it's not. carb is flooting a lot, iddle is never the same, on day it start right up and the other day it needs 5 minutes sooooooo... i decided to go for a 600cfm edelbrock (1406)... but here is my problem: when i decided to put it on... it's to big here is what i have: plus i have that "bar" going to the transmission that i don't know what to do with the edelbrock. thanks for your help guys!
The Edelbrock 1406 is a 4 barrel carb and you have a 2 barrel manifold. You will need to swap the intake manifold to a 4 barrel manifold.m The bar to the transmission is the kick down linkage. The instructions from Edelbrock will explain how to hook that back up.
is there a 2 barrel carb that i could buy instead? i mean, i like the perf of the car like that, so is the 4 barrel necessary? i'm looking for something that i won't have to tune up everyday since i use my mav' as a daily driver. thanks
I would recommend you get the old carb rebuilt. It will work just fine for you and what you are wanting to do.
try to get a 4barell intake, you can find them in junkyards or online pretty cheap...you'll be happier with the 4barell in the long run....IMO
and what about that? http://www.holley.com/0-4412S.asp holley 500cfm 2 barrels? except that it's a manual choke and i have an electric choke, but i suppose it's possible to convert it to an electric choke with a kit? it's not that i'm not taking your advice guys, i'm just trying to find the closest solution from stock (and also the cheapest). but if you guys really think i should go with a 4 barrels carb and manifold, i'll go for it. i just need to know what it's gonna give me compare to a 2 barrels set up. someone said to have it rebuild : where can i do that? places like NAPA or advance auto parts? or some specialist? thanks guys!
Ask around for a local mechanic to rebuild your carb. You could also rebuild it yourself....very simple and easy to do. If you were closer to me....I would do it for you. Actually.....I would "oversee" you while YOU rebuild it.
i agree with Craig, the autolite 2100 carb is a very simple and effective design and works great with stock engines. the carb kit is only like $15 plus the cost of a machine shop to rebuild it ($25 around here) or do it yourself and save some money.
If you can read and follow directions, you can rebuild a carb. They're not really that hard to work on, the big thing is getting everything clean and putting all the parts back where they go, and setting the mixture screws back. You can buy cleaner in a gallon can that has a basket in it to soak the parts in, makes it easier to keep them together without loosing them. Just read on the container, some plastic parts will get eaten by the cleaner, so clean them by hand with something else....
sweet! cleaned it, changed the pieces, puted it back on and fired right up! even keeped the idle... low.. but keeped it:bananaman thank you guys! but i have another problem now: run like sh*t when driving, from idle to 2000 RPM it sounds like he's flooting... and then after 2000 RPM, wow! all the horses arrive together, which is funny but it's not what i want... what do i need to touch? mixture? and something else: sometimes when i start the car and put the shifter on "drive", nothing happen... i mean it stays on "neutral" is it the shifter or the transmission? the transimission works great when driving, and it's rarely hapening, but still, i'm curious to know. thanks for your answers!
check the trans fluid level for the last problem its probly low. the new problem with it "flooting" i asume that you mean flooding, was that problem there before? if not, i would make sure that the acclerator pump is working. with the car off, take off the air cleaner, and while lookng down through the carb where you can see the venturis and throttle blades, cycle the throttle lever full through its range. you should see two streams of gas squirt down each barrel of the carb. if that does not happen you have not put the accelerator pump circut togther correctly. if your idle mixture screws are to far out, it will cause a stumble. the best way to addjust the idle mixture is to, first take the vac. line off the dizzy, and plug it with something, then set the idle rpm at the desired rpm (usally around 750rpm). then useing a vaccume gage hooked up to a manifold vac port adjust the idle mixture screws with 1/4 turns in and out till you find the highest vaccume level obtainable.
awesome... just unscrewed the idle mixture screws to get a little less rich... first 1/4 turn each, drove arround the block and then again 1/4 each, drove arround the block again... and it's a way better! i think one more 1/4 and it will be perfect! i'll check the transmission fluid tomorow... i know how to check it but where do you put more into the transmission? in the same bucket as for the stearing wheel fluid? sorry about those silly questions, i never had an old V8 car before! but i love it! in the last 3 weeks i learned how to change: a starter, an alternator, a termostat, rebuild a carburetor and so many other things
