think of trying to use a piece of fire hose as a straw to drink a cup of water... sure it flows more but you cant really use it and it will probably end up doing more harm then good
i just dont see how 30 hp will do harm, what do i need to do inorder to get this part working??? if you dont know, then what should i do for power???
higher compression, better flowing heads and a cam would help you cant just bolt on X amount of HP with one part. engine modifications need to work with one another to achieve the over all power goal
the intake could make that much power if the current intake is really restrictive. i find that usually just a intake and carb sway dont give that much of a gain when stock heads and cam are still in use. the whole trying to suck through a small straw thing applys to the carb intake heads, headers/exhast manifolds, exhast pipes and mufflers. the trick it to identify the most restrictive componet and replace or modify it to not be restrictive.
A lot of people on this board know how to make power. Eveyone knows speed cost money...how fast do you want to go? It take more than one part to add hp to a stock engine. You need to get gas in and gases out. HP is made in the combustion chamber, the space between the top of the piston and bottom of the valves. Higher compression the more hp. Too much compression and the engine will knock and valves and/or metal will glow and engine will keep running after you turn the key off. Valves, cam lift, cam duration, carburetor size, combustion shape, timing, ignition, intake, exhaust and a list of other stuff all this has to work together to make power. Too much of one thing and or not enough of the other you're back to square one (or the square before #1).
Carburetors increase potential air consumption in the form of CFM(cubic feet per minute)A 750 cfm carb9for example) on a stock 302 with no mods other than dual exhaust will not get you more HP.It will however allow you to waste more fuel since your engine is not built to take advantage of the potential air consumption increase. An internal combustion engine is a big heavy air pump.The more air you can get in AND out of it the more power you can make.Most mods other than durability are designed around this basic concept.BUT... you have to build the induction and exhaust to take/make advantages of the air/fuel consuption potential of your components.This theory also has to take into account size/weight of pistons... valves... head flow through the ports etc...buy a good book on how to build high performance engines and read it cover to cover.A good book on basic theory cant hurt either... gotta know the basics before you modify something thats allready been engineered to operate dependably for long periods of time.good luck and remember... bigger isnt allways better.
OK, that intake will not net you 20-30 more HP. It WILL however allow you room to grow with future upgrades (cam, heads and headers) As for a carb , you want a smaller sized carb, not bigger. Bolting on a 750 cfm carb will cause you to loose hp with the engine you have now (even with the Stealth intake) Too much carb (cfm rating) is worse than too little. You get to a point with larger carb throats where the airspeed decreases, thereby decreasing the amount of fuel drawn out of the venturis (these are the round thingy's in the center of each carb throat) The airspeed creates a pressure differential (otherwise known as vacuum) in the venturi and that's what pulls the fuel from the fuel bowl. Too little vacuum + less fuel pulled from the venturis. This affects the low speed drivability and there's a point reached in the upper rpms where vacuum ceases to exist in the venturi, thereby cutting the fuel flow off. A smaller carb size will improve the low speed driveability while only somewhat limiting the top end. Your (83 Motor)engine will reach a point in the rpm band where the hp output levels off (then begins to drop) this point is likely somehat below the potential of a smaller sized carb. The carb size you're looking for is in the 450-600 cfm range. Even after changes in the heads, cam and exhaust, the smaller carb will still get you what you want, up to a point. That point will only limit the car's topend, not the bottomend. If your engine is capable of using all the flow rating of a 450-600 cfm carb, the theoretical rating will increase with more engine pulling air thru it, this makes it act like a bigger carb than it is. In short, less carb is usually better than more for a street motor.
Stock heads on that one are your serious limitation. Some of the worst castings Ford ever produced on the small block. Big combustion chambers, tiny exhaust ports with large air injection ports in the way... Got several sets around here. As mentioned before me, a good dual plane intake and a 600cfm carb is a start and can likely be found for around $200. No reason to get silly with a 750 cfm carb, trust me, they do run worse. I ran a 750 on mine briefly while I was building another carb. The engine would ping under light load, pulling hillls, etc, constantly, because it was running lean. It got me to work while my Holley 600 was leaking and my Autolite 4100 was taking a swim in carb cleaner, but it wasn't a pleasant experience.
woo....lots of info 300 hp, all i want, but i think i wilol go with the weiand 8124....it will only give me bout 10 -15 hp increase but i cant be greedy, wat u think? yes or no..
Don't be surprised if you don't 'feel no hp gain. Changing one part won't do much of nothing. Like stated many times before in this thread it takes several parts working together to 'make' hp.
On a stock engine the weiand intake and a 600cfm vacuum secondary carb will get you better throttle response and mixture distribution to the cylinders.You will see a difference in performance(seat of the pants) but not a big gain in HP.It is a good choice that allows you room to grow as you add other components such as headers and or a MILD rv type cam.Dont go nuts with cam lift/duration untill you can add heads the will breathe well.Stay under 230 duration at 050 with the stock heads unless you plan on getting good heads soon.Good luck.
Ditto!!! But in addition to this, choosing a cam grind that's too big has another drawback with his motor. That's the overlap factor. More overlap needs more static compression to work, and that's something his motor doesn't have. The overlap bleeds off compression, thus the need for a higher compression ratio with many big cams. 230* @.050 to me may be too much with his engine as it is now. I wouldn't go over a 220* cam unless it's got a wider LSA (112* and higher)
