I just bought a Maverick that had been sitting for about two years. The guy I bought it from said he had "flushed" the gas tank and added a second fuel filter leading from the gas tank above the drivers side rear tire to clean any remaining junk. I have replaced the rear filter about six times and the front filter twice. When the tank starts to get below half full the gas looks like liquid rust. So my question is: Is there any way to clean the tank without compleatly removing it, or is that the only way? Any help is appriciated. Thanks, Jeremy
Remove it. It's not that hard. When you have it out you can inspect it better. The inside may need a scrubb and recoat. I suggest you order a O ring for the sender. There cheap. When you have it out you can throw a chain in the tank and pour some MEK (found at Home Depot or Lowes) in there and start shaking it all around. Rinse real good. Get some Red Coat from O reiley (1 qt) and pour the whole thing in and recoat by turning in different angles using a flashlight.
By the way You can use the "search" button to find info. Here's where I did my tank... http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=25043
you can get the late model tank new, they are not that pricy... ...it will come with a new locking ring and gasket... ...Frank...
Why put a band-aid on something that needs replaced. You can spend over $100 having yours cleaned and re-sealed and then you still have a 35+ year old tank. Or you can spend $125 and have a brand new tank.
If I can buy a new tank for $125 I will. Where is the link? I spent around $40 tops, not including the drive to fetch a better used one tho. That was to clean and relign it, new seal, paint, undercoat... A new one is the way to go, but I don't want to spend time modifiying. I have enough of that on the rest of the car .
Thanks for the link...already had it but hadn't been there in a while. Just my luck too, no tank listed for a 73 Mav or Comet.
new vs restore I agree with the new tank route-I had the same problem. IF you attempt to clean yours out, with all respect to Gene, I would not use a chain to rattle out the scale and sludge. Steel can cause sparks. I have always heard that using a handful of assorted brass fittings is safer: nuts, air valves, etc. Brass won't make a spark when struck. Dennis aka Mavaholic did an excellent tech article on the Mustang tank swap for these cars-moving the sending unit/pickup to the front center of the tank. Thus more clearance for dual exhaust. Maybe that matters if you have/want a V8. Just search the tech articles section for gas tank swap info. Good luck. Seth
To make this tank tank fit my '74 I used longer carriage bolts to reach the straps. The rear (small bumper) valance fit like it should with no problem. You will also need the '75 and up vapor valve and rubber seal that holds the valve in place. The valve, part # E7DZ9B593-A and seal, part # F6TZ9B076-AA is still avabile at your local Ford Parts Department. Bigger pic click>> http://1bad6t.com/Maverick/mav_1439.jpg
Thanks. I'll have to look into this. Seth, you are right, steel does spark. You gotta get it going alot faster than my arms will be able to shake this heavy clumbersom tank around. The fact that it's wet also keeps it from sparking. Never the less, one should use extreme caution when dealing with this stuff... Looks nice. I'll show it off again for ya
Thanks Thanks, for everyones help. I guess I will try to replace the tank if I can still get a cheap one. I've never really worked on cars much before, so this will be a learning experience. I'll check out the article on swaping tanks, and let you know how it goes. Thanks again, Jeremy
if you use the tank...rthomas771...is talking about, all you need to mount it is...2 longer bolts... ......
