I can't make it much clearer. Standing in front of the car. Your left. Passenger side. 1,2,3,4. Standing in front of the car. Your right. Drivers side. 5,6,7,8. I'd really suggest you get a Chiltons manual. These are great reference books. Also try this link http://www.boxwrench.net/specs/ford_289_302-5.0.htm
LOL! It's not that I don't understand what you are saying...but something aint right here. I just came in from the garage.....stood in front of the engine...re-wired it so the plug wires go in the firing order, 1-2-4-2-6-3-8, and took the #1 cylinder to TDC (#1 being first one up near radiator, passenger side, and the other corresponding to count back). Attempted to start car, would not start. So..and here goes the ?, wired up the opposite., #1 being on my "Right" side.....she started up, but again runs poorly......Now you figure that out. Makes no sense to me at all.
OK.....not to proud to admit that is was something I apparently did.....went back in the garage, poored a cup of coffee....took all the wires off, took the cap off, reset the #1 to TDC, place the cap back on, inserted wires to reflect the firing order and cylinder location (as described), hit the starter button (remote starter), and SHE FIRED RIGHT UP, and idled smoothly. So, apparently something was screwed up...but she will still flood up and won't idle unless you "feather" the throttle after a once around the block, but got her wired up and running...so, sorry for all the "shaken your head" questions and explanations...but it was one of those "come on now" problems...Thanks again for all the replies and the web sites, take care.
i have a question Does the car only run rough after its warmed up? If so maybe the problem is a cracked intakemanifold.
Well, yes and no...I mean it runs ok when first started, but then after a few runs around the block, she doesn't seem to want to idle, unless you "feather" the throttle., If I can recall, in the old school days, to check an intake manifold we use to spray starter fluid around and if the car would idle up, then we had a crack or leak, does that make any sense to you, or other than visual inspection any other way to check a manifold for leak or crack? Thanks.
magnaflux The only sure way to know is have it magnafluxed. Before you pull the intake off, have you taken the air cleaner off and checked that the fuel is atomizing inside of the carb like it should? Also does it have a heat activated choke? A bad choke could cause it to run porly, but idle fine.
You're dead on with the spray test. If there's a crack, the spray will find it. You may also have an overheating problem here, boiling the fuel in the carb. Backwards head gaskets will cause this to happen.
Thanks for the replies. Well, the car is up for sale both locally and on Ebay, along with another car I have, so if it doesn't sale, and gets pushed back in the garage, I will be looking at it. As probably many of you, I consider myself a "back yard" mechanic, and usually take in to many projects. The reason for all the questions is that when you work on one item, and jump to another, rather than trying to figure one out, it's easier to ask others who have been working on that vehicle, who had similar projects, and who may have found easy answers or tips..so appreciate all the help, enjoyed it. Just to let you all know, if you have been reading my threads., the spark plug wire and firing order was a mystery....I know they were put on opposite than they should have and it ran...no really in ran...but when I took everything off, cap, plugs, wires, and just re-installed as they should have been, it ran great, but it is still a mystery....hey before I go, how about the pain in the...well "neck" the #7 plug is to get to with that engine pull bracket located there...wow. Take care all and thanks.
Well, I guess you can take her off, dosn't do much unless you are going to pull the engine. But, I wanted to keep everything original on during the selling process. Again, if she doesn't sell, this winter I just may pull the 302 out, put her on the stand, and go completely over it, and see what happens. Not to much to do to make this look just like a Comet GT, I mean the hood and stripe kit....or am I missing something...even the interior can be changed. Let me ask, not being a Mercury Comet expert, did the GT's all have buckets and floor shifts?
plug wires first off the rotor on a 302 turns counter clockwise the cap should have a mark at #1 if not it should be the hole half way between 5 and 8 at back of the cap it is the second hole from the left.CLIP if you are looking down at the top of the dist standing in front of the car remember it turns counterclockwis the fireing order is<-----<<1 5 4 2 6 3 7 8 <---<< backburnerharry@msn,com or pm harry
engine rough hey guy did you check for a vac. leak also go with pertronix elect.ign system vary easy to install call 909/599/5955 for a dist near you i love mine no points no problem again harry
Hey., just a question. When I picked up my "73" Comet, she had a trailer hitch on her...looked well made, and bolted up nice. Obviously it came off and is sittining in the back garage., but as I surf around the web, I see more and more (mostly somehwat original) Comets and Mavericks with similar hitches. Did they offer a hitch, or was that just the thing to do to these pony cars. Also, anybody interested in buying a hitch? Thanks.
