I dreaded the look of the chewed up drivers side front brake line fitting (the wheel well end that connects to the rubber hose). I tired to loosen it with a standard 7/16 open end, but it was too damaged from someone who had "vise-gripped" it (I think it's original). Reluctantly, I had to also use some vise grips and break it free. It finally came off and the threads aren't too damn bad, but the nut end is shot. The line is still good so I was hoping there would be some other options save replacing the whole line or cutting and re-flaring the tube. Am I hosed? Is that the only decent way of repairing a mangled fitting? Fortunately, the passenger side unscrewed ok and is reusable.
cut off the flare,install new fitting and re-flare is your best bet.Or replace the line,a chewed up fitting is just that and unless you like the vise grip method...Dont cheap out on brake stuff.Good luck.
Ok, I guess I'll have to bite the bullet. I don't have a double flare tool, so I'll have to snoop around for one.
The line from the the distribution block to the drivers side is only going to be about 16 inches long. Parts store sells line in varying lengths like 12" , 18", 24" etc already pre-made with flares and new nuts on each end. Cheaper than 1 gallon of gas..... Cleaver
I just went through this on both sides. Some idiot destroyed both flare nuts up front. There is enough play to cut off and reflare if you are frugal. If you decide to go with new lines which is what I had to do, keep in mind that the brake line sold in the stores does NOT have the correct flare nuts on BOTH ends. This requires cutting the line, reflaring and installation of the correct nut.
I pulled the old master off and also the offending line. Turns out the new master for discs has different sized fittings than the old drum master. I'll need some adaptors to fit to the master AND some adaptors for the other end where it meets the flex hose. The new hard line-to-flex junction fittings use a smaller size. There are several bends in the hard line, so I'm thinking of just sending it in to Custom Tube (or whatever their name is) to have a duplicate made and while I'm at it, have them install the smaller sized fittings so I can delete the adaptor on at least one side.
This project is going sloooowly due to work overtime. Anyway, I picked up a cheapo double flaring tool at Shucks. Phittt! It's crappy. The picture in the instructions shows the tube being put through the wrong side! WTF? I couldn't figure out why my 3 practice flares all came out like junk. Once I figured out the correct method, it produced only average crimps. The tool chews the tar out of the tube when it clamps down to keep it from moving. It holds the tube from moving all right, but at the cost of nasty gouges. The first flare on the actual tube for the car was puke, and the second one was only slightly better. I can't go a third, or I'll run out of usable tube. I got it bolted up and will hopefully get a chance this weekend to do a pressure test. I wonder if there is a semi affordable crimper that makes better flares? I don't think it's all operator error. Oaui!
Yes, I tried the generic crimper and was not happy at all. I finally sprung for one from Sears (still not great quality...but certainly better) and was much happier with the results. Did not eat into the tube nearly as much and instead of using wing nuts to tighten it, it uses long nuts that you can use a wrench on.
Tone, This one does have nuts to tighten down on the clamp bar also, but damn does it mangle the tube. If it leaks like a sive, I might have to look into a better tool.
Phiitt! I hooked er' up and gave it several static presses/holds...and I'll be dipped in sh!t...it's holding! The new discs look great, can't wait for the new wheels so I can road test her. I'm thinking of doing a write up on the conversion with all the little tips, tricks, snafus, etc....that I went through.