this is the 302 sam m sold me yesterday. its from a '77 maverick after i pulled the intake, valve covers and exhaust manifolds i left the bottom end alone and i left the cam and lifters in it. i did pull the oil pump since it was perviously swapped to a dual sump pan anyway. i think im going to stop off tomorrow and get a wire brush drill bit and clean it up iam going to need a alternater bracket and the correct crank shaft pullie since a water pump and alternater are going to be my only belt drivem accesories, need a new oil pan and pump, timing set, water pump, intake manifold, blah blah blah lol but she's getting there
Looks like a decent engine. Still would check a couple rod and main bearings to see if they look ok and also check the crank end play for proper clearance. Don't want to have to pull it back out once it is reinstalled. The head looks maybe like it had a gasket problen or maybe some water in it if it was sitting for awhile. Good cleaning will do wonders for the whole engine too. I bet you got a good one there anyway.
im no prefessional engine builder or anything but everyting looked good to me. it spun freely once the plugs were out and the walls looked good. the timing chain was really loose but nothing else really stuck out at me. i was told it wasnt starrted for a while so i wasnt expecting it to be dripping with oil but i seem pools of oil on the rockers and other places on the top end so i dont think it was ever starved. i sprayed WD40 into all the spark plug hles last night so you might be seeing that,
In the pics, there are a couple of pistons that appear to be just shy of TDC, Is that correct, or are they at TDC? If they are, you're going to be missing some compression. Hard to tell what heads those are, other than they're post 77 heads.
i cant remember but i think those two pics were taken at 2 diffrent times wit the crank in 2 diffrent positions but im not sure. i can say that i have seen all the pistons com all the way up to the top of the block i'll have to get some numbers off the block and heads so i can find out fo sho' what im working with
Keep the cylinders clean, maybe tape them off when your cleaning the block, also if you going to be tilting the engine, pull the lifters out before one hits the ground, but keep them in order as to where they came out. A new timing chain and a "ARP" oil pump drive shaft are money well spent.
good advice. i did number all the push rods. the lifters are still in their bores. i sprayed some wd40 on the cylinders and wraped the whole thing iup in a tarp and wheeled in indoors. you guys think the wire brush drill bit is a good clean up tool?
this is the pan that was on the engine. fox body right? over on the other side on the deeper end there is some kind of sensor sticking out of the side
The wire brush will work, but you have to make sure you keep the cylinders as clean as possible, any small chunks of crap will score the sidewalls, so don't rotate the crank if you don't have to, till you know there isn't any junk in there, use some motor oil on paper towel to clean the cylinder walls, WD40 is a solvent, it'll wash away an oil. Take your time with a scrapper and clean the block off first, then use a wire brush when all the dirt & grime is off, then some de-greaser on a rag will clean it up nice before paint. Looking at those pic's remind me of when I rebuilt my first engine (not in school) in my Mom's shed.
yea good times im doing this one in my g/f's garage actually. her parents are nice enough to let me stre the car there too a semester or 2 from now i should be in the engine rebuilding/performance class at school where we'll be doing all this but i guess you could say im getting a head start im going to see if we cant do the manuall steering swap in my steering and suspension class tho lol
To insure the cylinder wall-piston gap is clean, you can tilt the engine over and spray carb cleaner in the gaps, any trash will get flushed out by the carb cleaner.
ok. i'll try that tomorrow im wondering. if i stick to the stock heads and stock pistons what would be a good carb/intake/cam combination? im also going to pick up a master gasket set. any recomendations?
I'd use Fel Pro gasket with an Edelbrock performer intake and 600 cfm carb. As far as a cam..I would go hydraulic around 480 lift. Just my opinion. If you still want the v8 conversion stuff I'll throw in the alternator brackets too.
