I have a 73 Maverick with 250. I was looking for a inexpensive upgrade so followed the Tech article Putting a 2bbl carb in your I6 (great article) the instillation worked out real well. The problem I have is how do I install the transmission knock down. I used the stock linkage from the throttle no problem, but the knock down lever and bolt don't line up very well. Can someone who has replaced the stock carb take a picture or offer some advice.
i'd like to help you but i just down shift manually alot of people recomend the universal c4 kick down lever from lokar. but at 100 bucks i figured i'd be ok just shifting it myself
A cable down- shift linkage is about the only way for you to go unless you are good at fabrication. You could fabricate a bellcrank to go from the carb to the kick-down linkage and adjust it so at wide open throttle there is .060 gap between the full throttle lever position and the kick-down linkage held as far as it would go (full down shift position). That is the most critical dimension. I could be done with over travel rods or spring pressure engagement like a progressive throttle. If you will be manually shifting you C4, and keeping the revs high then it isn't necessary to have the linkage but if you intend to let the transmission do the shifting you need to install the kick-down linkage. The Lokar cable has all the parts to do the job for a reasonable price(close to $100) and is a good way to do it. It isn't the only way to do it though so it depends on you and your driving preferences. Lugging the engine without the linkage will probably burn the C4 forward clutches and maybe the direct clutches too. It is all up to you.
I have just a few problems/questions that came up. I gave the folks at Lokar a call and they said I would still need to fabricate a bracket to hold the end of the cable at the carburetor side. The other problem is they said that the cable attached to the bottom of the carburetor, but I have no way to attached the cable. I can see where something might have been there before, but not now. I ordered the carb from Langdon and I guess they setup the carb differently. I think I can modify the previous setup.
if you figure out a way to get your set up to work take some pics and post the details and i'll go back and edit the 2bbl article to include your info
guys I'm in the middle of having a guy give me an estimate on this swap, First of all what does this affect? just dropping down to pass, or does this affect the transmission downshifting for normal driving?
unless you floor it alot you wont even notice i dont have the kick down hooked up. when i floor it, it'll rev up really high before shifting when i take off. my solution is right when the rpm is at the point where i want it to shift i grab the shifter and put it in 2 then when it shifts (tires chirp! )and is back in a normal rpm range i put it back in D.
Can anyone tell me what the estimate would be to have this done. This guy charges $75 per hour labor. I am actually having an estmate put together for several things and I have not used this guy before jsut kinda curious
Hey, how does the air cleaner fit under the hood? That's the thing I'm the most worried about with my 250.
That is another story but, I think it's going to have a happy ending. I purchased the adapter when I bought the carb. I knew that clearance was going to be an issue so I cut the base off. I then had a 1/4 aluminum plate welded to the adapter. I reamed out the hole in the base and shaped it to match the adapter. I then took the egr valve off and mounted the new and improved adapter to the intake manifold. I purchased a new filter element and modified it to fit the carb. I knew I could not use the stock element because it was about an inch too small to fit around the carb. Here it the link to the element. [ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068OOIU"]https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_/103-0950254-4609419?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=Mr.+Gasket+4339+Low+Rider+Air+Cleaner&x=15&y=16[/ame]
