Well i dropped the engine, cleaned it all up got the new flywheel on and repainted the block and everything.. now im going to drop the engine back in and getting the headers in seems pretty much impossible.. The ones that were on the car when i bought it were the headman performance long headers.. like the hooker ones.. they are a big long one piece.. they were tough to take out when i was pulling the engine and even tougher to get back in. i tried everything.. putting the engine in place and feeding them through, putting the headers in place then dropping the engine on them.. connecting the headers then trying to bring the engine in on a huge slant.. nothing seems to work.. closest ive come is about 1.5 inches off vertically and about 1 inch horizontally.. not too close... so today im in the auto store and they say to take these flowtech block huggers home and it will make it all better.. they were worst because the output tubes on the flange that connects to the block were too long and didnt curve quick enough and hit those pesky shock towers.. ive been told that cutting away alot of those shock towers then boxing it in by welding was a good thing to do.. but i have none of those skills and i cant see it turning out too well without paying some serious cash and at that point i may as well just trailer it to an exhaust shop and have them custom do it or find something to work.. Any headers you have found to work well or easily?? i dont want to pay a fortune and i dont really want to sacrifice performance but i would like to get the engine in and running any help would be appreciated..
Long tube headers need to be installed from under the car. I used to have Hooker 6901's ... The passenger side can go in with the starter removed and engine on the mounts. The driver side you need remove the mount and then jack the engine up about 3 or 4 inches to get it in place. FYI ... if you don't have a lift ... you need to get the car very high off the ground to get enough angle on the headers to slide them in.
You just need to know the tricks to get the long tubes in. They aren't bad, just must be done just so. There are several threads on the subject. I have some of my tips in post 31 on this thread: http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=15533 Post 11 here: http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=28738
allright thanks.. at least i have some hope now i was getting a bit frustrated for a while. Well i did notice i could get the passenger side in so that shouldnt be a problem, i may run into problems getting that car high enough off the ground though.. how high do i need it do you think??
If you don't have the right stuff to get it 36" up safely, then you need to just jack it up enough to get under it, and then raise the engine off the mounts a couple inches. 10" car raise plus 3" engine raise= 36" car raise. It's substantially safer IMO.
I believe he posted 2X on this as i answered about lifting on the other post. But i'll say it again. Don't forget to use the jackstands!!!
haha allright.. ill remember those jackstands!! haha well i got some good work done today tomorrow after school ill try and get that driver side header in!! thanks!! ill let you all know how it goes
I have done this several times, and finally, after forgetting each time, I put in on my diary/website so in the future, I can do it right the first time. One went if from the top, the other side went in from the bottom, with the engine jacked up and different heights for each. They are a hassle, but worth it. While they are out, check out this starter to give you more header clearance and to make that top starter bolt easier to access...http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=40882&highlight=starter
don't do like I did I got all the bolts started on the passengerr side and at 3AM I woke up < I forgot to put the gasket in The middle bolts all bneed to come back out I won 't forget it on the other side, I bet ya
