has any one installed the 8pt cage that jegs sells for mavericks ?? the price is $159 ...does it fit well ?
Just curious... How much modification needs to be done to a stuck interior to install this. What is a reasonable cost to have someone install it?
heya- not sure about totally stock (my car is basically gutted), but to an extent it will depend on the height of the driver. IHRA rules dictate the max distance the main hoop can be from the drivers head- thus the shorter the driver, the farther forward the main hoop will need to be and that will subsequently have a bearing on the location and angle of the side door bars. The door bars must pass between the drivers shoulder and elbow- so you can see that it will depend on the size of the driver when determining exactly where the side bars will fall. This in turn will need to be addressed within the car regarding the interior components. Example: I am short, only 5'8". That dictated the main hoop be fairly far forward in the car. The door bars (when installed to meet spec) passed directly in front of the stock door handle and in doing so, prevented its operation. In my car this was not a problem- stock fixtures are a non issue- its not a resto- I just switched to a cable style handle from a late model car and installed it higher up on the door panel. Other obvious conflicts will be the back seat and rear speaker deck. The rearward bars need to pass through that area and will require accommodation in this aspect. The two diagonal main hoop cross braces will make sitting in the back seat very uncomfortable for all except 110lb, 4'6" tall asians. Also, the door bars make getting into/out of the car a chore- particularly if you're into strength training (I am, I weigh in at 270lbs @ 5'8") or are otherwise a big dude. You CAN install a 'swing out kit' that will allow the drivers door bar to swing on a hinge allowing for ingress/egress. They are also IHRA track legal if installed properly. Lastly- if you intend on tracking the car, you should read up on the IHRA rules regarding cage installation- they can disallow a car if the welds are incorrect on a cage! Its a tricky business. IMHO, if the car is to be used as a mild street/strip car and the cage is for a bit of added attitude and a measure of frame stiffening, I would recommend a more modest 4 or 6 point setup (basically, no door bars). Just my (I know I know- more like $11.50- I tend to run on, lol) Hope some of this helped.
more or less- but they do differ, I believe, on several minor points...but from what I remember of NHR, those points are minor details. NHRA still does have very specific rules regarding the installation of a cage, etc. Certainly- if you plan on doing more than running the car once in a blue moon (they usually let very minor things slide if you're only at the track once or twice a summer) you'd be taking a big gamble on just winging it...if they re flag the car for a safety violation, you'll have to tear it all apart and install a new cage, etc etc- total bummer.
That's the best way,,, else you pay $10 for just the book. With membership jegs an summit gives a discount on a lot of parts!
Yep- you're going to want a rule book if you want to start thinking about tracking a car... I found out the hard way, way back, that there area LOT of things to consider when building a car that will see the track... One thing I didn't know is that TECHNICALLY SPEAKING- any car with a roll cage also is required to have a window net. Now I have seen plenty of cars running without them...but its one of those things that if they are looking for an excuse...etc etc. Sort of like how sodomy is technically illegal in most sates, but the police aren't going to come to your home and ask you what your bedroom practices are with your wife... they DO, however, enforce it when it is convenient for them such as when arresting a prostitute... same for fellatio. Example, I pulled this from a professional racing forum: --------------------------------------------------------------- Requirements for a car running 9 second bracket (10 second is basically the same and even 11 second changes only the axle requirement and other small details) Full roll cage and window net Aftermarket axles and axle retention device Driveshaft loop SFI flexplate and shield for automatic transmissions SFI tranny shield SFI balancer SFI clutch and flywheel for manual transmission 2 layer fire jacket. Fire pants, gloves, neck collar not required unless specific rule demands it. (open bodied cars, holes in firewall, etc) Fire extinguisher mounted in car Metal screw in valve stems on all tubeless tires At 150 MPH you need a parachute My car is set up to run as quick as 9.0 and 149.99 mph under IHRA rules. I do not need a chassis certification or a competition license until I run quicker than 9.0. Quicker than 9.0 is a whole new set of rules and quicker than 8.5 is even more rules so technically if you run quicker than 9.0, you build a car to 8.5 specs. ------------------------------------------------------------------------- So- there is a lot to it. The good news is that if you can race at an IHRA track- their rule set is currently more non-professional friendly and easier to build to spec... over the last several years the IHRA has been going through a campaign to attract more grassroots racers to the track.
